Thread: coolent temp fe

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Ok i will see if i can make the stock fan fit also how does the surge tank help what does it do different. Im not sure about a number on the fins i will need to look. The pullys are stock so i dont no if that would be and issue.i have not tried a guage to see the coolent temp threw out the system i will try that this weekend

the surge tank was used to get the air out of the flow thru the radiator on cross flow rads---high point on the system--

your rad will probably have 12 or 15 fins per inch--just take a ruler and count the number for an inch----if a fin lines up on almost every 1/16 mark you will probably have 15/inch

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

So---you have a cross flow radiator with 2 rows of one inch tubes----what about the other questions? You aren't using the stock fan and you did away with the surge tank!!!!!
And can you put a number per inch on the maximun amount of fins per inch??

Put the surge tank and fan back on the car and your issues will probably go away!!!!!!

Jerry,
With all due respect there are a ton of cars out there that have replaced the clunky OEM mechanical fan with a properly sized electric model and they do just fine, and often better than with the OEM fan. I believe this is especially true of the older iron, like the '61 model being discussed here - things have come a long way since the '60's. As for the surge tank, that's just an overflow tank with the inlet at the bottom, to ensure that the system is 100% liquid, unless I don't understand something about the old Ford surge systems. The main feature was a safe way to add fluid to a hot system, and there are lots of nice looking radiator overflow tanks out there that do the job just fine without the ugly features of the stock surge tank. If I had invested good money in modifying the cooling system to be more attractive without compromising the cooling I would not be in any hurry to throw the ugly OEM parts back on, but that's just me. I would be looking for the problem, and then trying to figure out how to make what I had work by making minimal changes. Again, no disrespect, just a difference in opinion here.

Well Roger--

A good saying that I quote occasionally is "If the facts don't support your theory, get a new theory!"

ANd I agree that many late model vehicles have electric fans, closed,recovery type systems that do a much better job than the old engine driven fan systems---however---this is not the case when some one puts a electric supposedly 2600cfm fan, no shroud, on a cross flow radiator when all the modern day cars will use a fan system that takes most of the utput of that 100+amp alternator to such upwards of 5000 cfm thru a very effient tightly shrouded radiator of triple 1 1/4 inch tubes and 15 fins per inch.

The FE is a heat producing mother and Ford put those tanks on them to complete a workable cooling system---the closed recovery systems came along years later in other applications--those tanks give a place for the air to rise to while a solid flow of liquid flows thru the radiator to be cooled by a airflow differential that is ducted thru the front of the vehicle where it has to go thru the rad core before passing around the engine,fuel pump/lines, carb, exhaust,etc and exit under the car for more cooling of the exhaust to keep the cabin cool.

The size of the pullies used by the factories are sized to give a ratio of the water pump/fan and electrical system needs in the application of the vehicle--ie, a pass car might have different pullies than say a dump truck or concrete mixer.

A advertized 2600cfm fan won't cut it, and a crossflow radiator with the cylinder heads higher than the core won't work without a total fluid only passage thru( no air/foam/bubbles)

If I misspelled any words I'll be happy to correct them

Jerry

OK THAT ALL SOUNDS GOO.I SHOULD HAVE MENTIONED THIS B4 BUT THE CAR RAN HOT B4 THE RADIATOR AND FAN. i HAD THE STOCK FAN THE STOCK SURGE TANK AND A REBUILT FACTORY RADIATOR AND IT RAN EVEN HOTTER THATS WHY I DID ALL THIS STUFF ITS BETTER NOW BUT LIKE ROGER SAID I HAVE A 180 THERMO SO IT SHOULD BE CLOSE TO THAT. I FEAL LIKE IM CAUSEING FIGHTS AND I DONT LIKE THAT SO GUYS PLEASE DONT GET UPSET I THINK I WILL BUILD A SHROUD FOR WHAT I HAVE AND PLAY WITH THE TIMING AND GET IT GOOD AND BROKE IN THEN I WILL LET YALL NO HOW ITS GOING DOES THAT SOUND LIKE A GOOD PLAN

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Well Roger--

A good saying that I quote occasionally is "If the facts don't support your theory, get a new theory!"

ANd I agree that many late model vehicles have electric fans, closed,recovery type systems that do a much better job than the old engine driven fan systems---however---this is not the case when some one puts a electric supposedly 2600cfm fan, no shroud, on a cross flow radiator when all the modern day cars will use a fan system that takes most of the utput of that 100+amp alternator to such upwards of 5000 cfm thru a very effient tightly shrouded radiator of triple 1 1/4 inch tubes and 15 fins per inch.

The FE is a heat producing mother and Ford put those tanks on them to complete a workable cooling system---the closed recovery systems came along years later in other applications--those tanks give a place for the air to rise to while a solid flow of liquid flows thru the radiator to be cooled by a airflow differential that is ducted thru the front of the vehicle where it has to go thru the rad core before passing around the engine,fuel pump/lines, carb, exhaust,etc and exit under the car for more cooling of the exhaust to keep the cabin cool.

The size of the pullies used by the factories are sized to give a ratio of the water pump/fan and electrical system needs in the application of the vehicle--ie, a pass car might have different pullies than say a dump truck or concrete mixer.

A advertized 2600cfm fan won't cut it, and a crossflow radiator with the cylinder heads higher than the core won't work without a total fluid only passage thru( no air/foam/bubbles)

If I misspelled any words I'll be happy to correct them

Jerry

Well Jerry, I believe my theory is fine, and I'd also say that it pretty well dovetails with yours You put more explanation into it, but we both agree that the surge tank that Ford added was put there to purge all of the air from their radiator, increasing heat transfer and improving cooling, so we agree
I can't comment on the FE being a "...heat producing mother...", any more than other engines of the period or since, but there are plenty running cool, so controlling heat is possible. Having a properly installed coolant recovery tank to keep the system 100% liquid is a basic tenet, and I guess we agree again
61galaxiefe told us that his pulleys were all stock, but the primer on different pulley sizes for different applications is good information to know, and your explanation makes perfect sense. The 2600cfm fan may not be enough, but it does not stand a chance without a good shroud, another point of agreement.

I think your spell checker worked great

Originally Posted by 61galaxiefe

OK THAT ALL SOUNDS GOO.I SHOULD HAVE MENTIONED THIS B4 BUT THE CAR RAN HOT B4 THE RADIATOR AND FAN. i HAD THE STOCK FAN THE STOCK SURGE TANK AND A REBUILT FACTORY RADIATOR AND IT RAN EVEN HOTTER THATS WHY I DID ALL THIS STUFF ITS BETTER NOW BUT LIKE ROGER SAID I HAVE A 180 THERMO SO IT SHOULD BE CLOSE TO THAT. I FEAL LIKE IM CAUSEING FIGHTS AND I DONT LIKE THAT SO GUYS PLEASE DONT GET UPSET I THINK I WILL BUILD A SHROUD FOR WHAT I HAVE AND PLAY WITH THE TIMING AND GET IT GOOD AND BROKE IN THEN I WILL LET YALL NO HOW ITS GOING DOES THAT SOUND LIKE A GOOD PLAN

61galaxiefe, I believe your plan is right. It's interesting that you're telling us that the car ran hot before, with all of the stock hardware and a rebuilt OEM radiator. Was your "rebuild" a total teardown with the block cleaned out and machined to spec or was it a bearing & ring job? Question is, did you do anything to chase the overheating issue during your rebuild? No need to reply now - following your plan and letting us know how things progress works for me.

Are you sure you don't have an air bubble trapped in the system? Sometimes when you get a project done and you fill the system up, you normally fill the radiator and then as it drains into the block, you keep filling to get it full. But the coolant is pushing an air bubble into the system and can stay there until it breaks. So the motor gets real hot real fast. The way you solve that is to just cycle the motor, let it get hot, then let it cool down. eventually the bubble wil get pushed out and the coolant can then circulet much better.

try some of this ... what are you cooling with .. pure water or a coolant mix ?

Ok big thanks too all who helped me out. Sunday thought i would figure this thang out one step at a time I have a huge box fan in my garage so i drug it out riged it up in front of the car turned it on high let it run after about 15min guess what 210 (BOO) so i have had the idea in the back off my head that it timing so i shut it down let it cool and started it back up and advanced the timing more let it set at idle with the box fan cooled at 195 so i advanced the timing more got down to 180 :>) so i adjusted the carb and took it out for a test drive around town its 185-190 and hiway 180 and a bit below i can tell the thermosdat is working lol. so im syill going to build a fan shroud but seems i got a handle on it. thanks again looks like timing showed me this time lol