Thread: Rear end rebuild, help needed. Chevy 10 bolt

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I have a 84 c-10 that is leaking from the front seal, the back of the truck is sprayed with gear oil so I figure its pretty bad.It also has a small amount of play when shifting from forward to reverse.
I have all the tools to do a rebuild and seen my Dad rebuild a few ford 9"s but that was many moons ago. i have never done it myself but would like to try. Right now I have more time then money so its a win win
I would also like to add a limited slip unit. Any links or vids you guys might recommend?
Is it worth rebuild the 10 bolt or should I look for a 12 bolt?
Thanks

Depends on your application....do you have higher than stock HP? do you tow alot? do you haul heavy sometimes?
or drive like me....hard on the gas?...LOL
if so.....for what its worth.....I would recommend upgrading to a 12 bolt with posi
As for links to parts..... SummitRacing.com
I have bought all my parts from them, the service is excellent. prices are very good as well


My opnion....
Dan

Here is a place where you can buy a video.
Rear Axle Differential Rebuilding DVD Video - Rebuild your own rear end differential!

Rear end rebuild?

I had that surgery years ago!

Oh ....... excuse me. I misunderstood the subject.


Jim

If you just want to fix the leak you can replace the pinion seal without tearing into the diff. Here's a link with a "cliff's notes" version of the instructions.
Pinion seal replacement on a 10 bolt rear - Chevy Truck Forum | GMC Truck Forum - GmFullsize.com

I pinched this from the link rspears posted. It's a much more concise way of doing what I learned to do. Pay close attention to indexing everything before you take it apart; I clean everything that is exposed with lacquer thinner and mark the indexing with a paint pen or fine brush. When you put the new seal in, be real careful sliding it over the splines, to not score or cut the seal lip; a heavy paper (I use butcher paper) sleeve wrapped around the splines is a big help - lube the seal lip lightly and it will just slip nicely over the paper; when it is seated, just pull the paper out. The other thing I was taught is to make sure the splines on the shaft and flange are clean and greased lightly, and that the sealing surface on the flange is smooth as a baby's butt, no burrs or scratches anywhere, lube it lightly with oil and slide it carefully into the seal for starters. Once it is inside the lip, it will be an easy finish.

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From that link:

raise and secure vehicle, block front wheels
remove straps and set driveshaft aside.
use in/lb torque wrench to check torque it takes to rotate the pinion, record
scribe or punch alignment marks (or mark with a marker)
count number of threads visible and record that as well
keep companion flange from moving when loosening self-locking pinion nut
remove pinion nut
withdraw companion flange (may need a 2 or 3 jaw puller engaged behind the flange to draw it out. not not pry behind the flange or hammer on the pinion shaft.)
pry out old seal and discard
lube new seal with hitemp grease
tap into place with seal instal tool or large socket
make sure it seats all the way and is in squarely
install companion flange, noting the alignment marks
(do not hammer flange in, if necessary, use the nut to seat flange all the way)
apply non hardening sealant to the ends of the splines visible in the center of the flange so oil will be sealed in.
intall washer(if equiped) and pinion nut, noting number of threads showing and marks made.
make sure to tighten carefully in small increments until you reach the recorded torque measurement from earlier.
in order to compensate for the drag of the new seal, the nut should be tightened more until the rotational torque of the pinion slightly exceeds what was recorded earlier, but not by more that 5 in/lbs.
connect driveshaft and lower vehicle

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Thanks for the info. I think thats what I am going to do for now is replace the seal. I then will try and find a 12 bolt and rebuild with a limited slip. I am not looking for high horsepower, but will need to tow.