Thread: Anyone used molasses to derust??

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So did you see or not see Sunnen CK10? Alighn hone?

In the 34 years that I have had my align hone, there has not been ONE used block that didn't benifit from the job. I can tell he doesn't like to or can't by his pricing of the align hone job higher than his bore and hone cylinders( again, this sorta supports hand honing cylinders)

I agree, and just always asked for it as part of the machining process, on any other engine I have had done. But the guy in Sarasota voiced the same opinion of "let's check it first for trueness before we say it really needs to be done." This isn't going to be a race engine and will probably never see over 3500 rpms, because even my 331 stroker with 4:30 gears never is run that high........we just mainly use our cars to cruise around in at low rpms. If we were going to race them we would spend the extra effort and money to take them a few steps above a good "street rebuild." Both shops also said that if a main hadn't spun it might not be needed to line hone it, and the engine didn't have that problem, from what the block looks like.

I think what I respect about this guy is that he isn't like going to the repair shop for tires and then they try to sell you brakes, ball joints, and a muffler. He asked how the engine was going to be used, and suggested those operations that would make it work within those guidelines. I feel he has the equipment and ability to do whatever we would ask be done, because he had several high dollar motors sitting there being built. That, and he was able to perform two jobs for us already in the past that other shops in the area refused to touch.

Don

Oh, and to answer your other question, Jerry, I didn't check to see what exact equipment he has, and it would be lost on me anyway as I don't know one from the other.

hand hone or not 003 is the norm with out deck plates ck 10 or not shop in town bores closer then 003 and they have a ck and you can see bore marks in the walls some shop think this way if you have the machines they need to be paid on so you can not pay on them if setting some time if it needs it or not it gets done did you ask if he tru decks with the BHJ ???? on EX seat s it has alot to do with the year of head .if it as heat induted seat they do not need hard seats , some of the older heads you can cut thru putting a seat in so some guys do not want to try to look for a head if they screw up

Pat, he did make reference to that BHJ machine, says it registers on the main and cam and then mills from those points, or something to that effect. Like I said, all of that is Greek to me.

Don

its a fixture that is used along with his mill to find were the deck needs to be theres is a photo of one on the back of a bbc in my photos if you want to see one. here is one with tq plates getting honed

Oh yeah, Pat, I think I have one of those collecting dust in the shop.............NOT !! Nice piece of equipment. Next time I am in there I will look to see what he has.

Don

I found this discussion on another forum. It explains the chemical process and has some good ideas about containers to use in the process.

derusting with molasses - Canadian Rodder Hot Rod Community Forum

Thanks for posting that link, I just got done reading it. Some good info there.

I moved my tank and molasses to a storage building I rent in the same complex where we have our shop. I am going to set it up there because I was worried about the smell and ants being attracted to the molasses mix if I put it in our main shop.

The first victim will be the 350 Chevy block I got with the Camaro ex drag car. It is in good shape, but from sitting for about 6 years it has some rusty spots and if I can remove those without disturbing anything else I can clean up the bore and put the motor back together.

I should be doing that either tonight or tomorrow night (when Don goes to the shop to work on his 46 he can help me lift the block into the soup) so I'll post some before shots then.

Don

Restorod thanks for the link. I may give it a try on my doors of the truck. The inside that is impossible to get to, is coated with rust. I've contiplated pooring por 15 in there and moving it all around, but this may work too. Don your our site guinnea pig! Let the sweet shop begin! Hey just a thought, but while your setting up your tanks, maybe play some aerosmith ....Sweet emotion.....!

You might lift the block into molasses but never , never try to lift into or out of a hot tank---not only very hot temps but splash that stuff on you or into you r eyes----

We use boots, heavy rubber shop aprons, long rubber gloves, safty goggles and a full face shield when moving/handling blocks /heads at cleaning tanks and also while rinsing off the STUFF!!!!!

Jerry, I have heard that the EPA has made it tough on machine shops to have good hot tanks like the old days, but some places must still have some sort of equipment to get the blocks rustfree, like they used to turn them out. From the sounds of it, you and Pat must still possess the ability to get your parts spotless.

I know the one machinist in town that I used for years doesn't get the blocks clean of rust any more, and the guy in Sarasota told me his equipment only takes off dirt and grease. But the guy we are going to use does have some pretty potent means, from what I saw looking at the ones laying there in his shop.

Don

Don I wasn't referring to your machine shop---My warning and advice was for YOU (and anyone else)messing with a tank of any kind of solvent----sometime a part will slip, and splash that goop on you---and when you are rinsing the parts after they have been in solution it will splash back on you---caution is advised------apron, gloves, goggles and full face shield---no exposed flesh!!!!!

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Jerry, I have heard that the EPA has made it tough on machine shops to have good hot tanks like the old days, but some places must still have some sort of equipment to get the blocks rustfree, like they used to turn them out. From the sounds of it, you and Pat must still possess the ability to get your parts spotless.

I know the one machinist in town that I used for years doesn't get the blocks clean of rust any more, and the guy in Sarasota told me his equipment only takes off dirt and grease. But the guy we are going to use does have some pretty potent means, from what I saw looking at the ones laying there in his shop.

Don

don it s zep 9878 and it eats rust i can bump the weight to water till blocks come out gray blue . i use to do alot of older 1960s70s blocks for guy that sold them on e bay i clean his blocks most of the time they look very good less they were sitting in a swamp . he just drop off a 455 olds today so she going in for a dip very soon . like jerry said this stuff is no joke it can blind you.it will burn you . just the steam can mess your lungs up . poping the lid up if i in it to much i get styes on my i lids .the soap in the jet wash is not as bad .but not very good i must of got a shot of it in my eye had a ulcer under my top eye lid took two month to get better

try vinegar, it loves rust & calcium....joe

there is a pickle packer about 15 miles up the road there tanks are out side.i think i could rent some space in one of there tanks ?Hey they would never know if 4 or 5 blocks were seting in there