Thread: Rocker arms - curiosity question

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My SB Ford is a crate 5.0/302 with the Ford Racing 'E' camshaft and Crane Energizer 1.7 pedestal (bolt down) full roller rockers which were what Ford also sold (mine actually have a Ford p/n on them. The heads were new, not used GT40P. The 1.7 ratio changes the effective lift from .498 to .529 and will change the camshaft duration by a few degrees. I've also used the 'recommended' Crane springs, locks and retainers to keep away from coil bind. These are the positives. And it does run very nicely.

I'm not totally happy with using an unknown manufacturer's 5/16" hold down bolt and may see if ARP has a super strength replacement.

Any other negatives are unknown. The engine builders here must have some knowledge. I have a couple of ideas, but want to see if they are the same as my "guesses" and discuss from there. It's not a racing engine, so no long high RPM runs.

that pedestal rocker that clip in a tin rail two rockers per rail is the same as the mopar magnum . others used about the same setup for and ford 351c 429/460 GM and other have used set ups like the for many years .i have taken the tower bolts out machined the stands down then drilled to a bigger stud and go to a stud/rocker set up on stuff thats going to get beat on hard with a big cam and more spring and for setting lash or pre load.your setup works .but could be improved but should be ok for what your doing with it

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

that pedestal rocker that clip in a tin rail two rockers per rail is the same as the mopar magnum . others used about the same setup for and ford 351c 429/460 GM and other have used set ups like the for many years .i have taken the tower bolts out machined the stands down then drilled to a bigger stud and go to a stud/rocker set up on stuff thats going to get beat on hard with a big cam and more spring and for setting lash or pre load.your setup works .but could be improved but should be ok for what your doing with it

Sounds about right - probably some eventual valve guide wear too with the change in geometry. This winter I'll do the unknown brand bolt change to ARP's and drive it like I stole it (nahhh)

What Pat said.....I've pulled a couple of the 5/16" studs, probably just not enough grip area on the threads or something. My cure has been to go to the 3/8" studs with guide plates, machine the correct amount off the casting, and poly locks on the rockers. Similar set up on the small block in the Mustang, it's been abused for 5 years now and still holding together just fine!!!! Same heads too, Dave--just a lot of porting and flow bench time on them one winter at a buddy's machine shop......