Thread: frozen bleeder

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Hi. I have a 96 Blazer. The brake line broke just above the rear axle on the drivers side. I used Seafoam in a spray bottle to loosen up the line fittings. Worked great. Now the bleeder seems frozen. I don't want to grunt on it to hard and break it off. Any suggestions on how to remove the bleeder enough to bleed the brakes?? Thanks..

heat some times you can hit them dead on the head of the bleeder NOT GET NUT s you can beat it shut ...just a good tap or two ...this help s brake the rust bond .i had some in the past were i just bled them thru the brake line not right but works . or just run down to the parts store and buy a new wheel cylinder

useing a deep well socket over the bleeder hit the socket several times then loosen. They sell sockets with Hex on end just for this but What I said will work also

Originally Posted by slantback37

Hi. I have a 96 Blazer. The brake line broke just above the rear axle on the drivers side. I used Seafoam in a spray bottle to loosen up the line fittings. Worked great. Now the bleeder seems frozen. I don't want to grunt on it to hard and break it off. Any suggestions on how to remove the bleeder enough to bleed the brakes?? Thanks..

Not that it matters, but you used SeaFoam as a penetrating oil? I've never heard of that one before, and never would have thought of using it in that capacity. My selection for penetrating oils is generally Kroil or PB Blaster, allowed to soak for as much time as my patience allows.

Loots of good answers, and I will try them all if it doesn't come out. Rspears. A guy at Church last night told me about using the Seafoam. There is some big stuff out there called something Creep. He told me from the guy at the counter that Seafoam and this Creep stuff is the same. Only difference is that you have to use your own spray bottle. The ones I did today in this 90 degree heat came out just fine. I sprayed them in the morning, and came out no problem by noon. I was going to trade in the Blazer, but it only has 91k on it. No rust. Just this bad brake line. I'll just fix it, and run it into the ground.

Originally Posted by slantback37

Loots of good answers, and I will try them all if it doesn't come out. Rspears. A guy at Church last night told me about using the Seafoam. There is some big stuff out there called something Creep. He told me from the guy at the counter that Seafoam and this Creep stuff is the same. Only difference is that you have to use your own spray bottle. The ones I did today in this 90 degree heat came out just fine. I sprayed them in the morning, and came out no problem by noon. I was going to trade in the Blazer, but it only has 91k on it. No rust. Just this bad brake line. I'll just fix it, and run it into the ground.

Slantback37,
Again, not a big issue but I'm not sure your buddy from church has it right. SeaFoam has several products, from their Motor Treatment to SeaFoam Spray to Deep Creep and a Transmission product and Bugs B Gone Sea Foam | Home . Their Deep Creep is a specific product, and while it may be similar to their SeaFoam Spray I don't think that either of those are the same as their Motor Treatment. That said, you've had good success with using SeaFoam Motor Treatment to break loose a stuck brake bleeder, so what do I know....

I'd say alot more than me, because I am asking the questions, and you have the answers along with others..

use an impact screwdriver like you use for motorcycles oull the screwdriver off and put a socket on it and hit it with a hammer if you don't have one buy one every body that messes with old cars should have one ....ted

Bought a new wheel cylinder, and a 30" brake line. Still 90 outside, so I will install the brake line tomorrow and bleed it. Thanks for your suggestions.. Al

If you can get your hands on some yield it is the best stuff you'll ever buy. Wish I still had a case since u gotta be a shop practically to get access to it. Its like pb blaster on steroids

I replaced the wheel cylinder. Did the trick. Then replaced 3' of brake line.