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Thread: remote doors
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Nassty is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1968 Pontiac Firebird
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    Cool remote doors

     



    I am going to shave the door handles on my 68 firebird and was wondering what strength of solenoid I should use ? They range from 12lb up to 50lb...I want them to work but don't want my doors to blow up.

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
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    Daily driver=50 lb
    Weekend driver= 36 lb
    Anything else used less than above=15-20 lb
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  3. #3
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    MrMopar64 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 60 Rambler Sedan Delivery,64 Chop Top
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    Re: remote doors

     



    Originally posted by Nassty
    I am going to shave the door handles on my 68 firebird and was wondering what strength of solenoid I should use ? They range from 12lb up to 50lb...I want them to work but don't want my doors to blow up.
    I just put 35lb on my 60 Sedan Delivery project last week and they are border line on being to strong
    I put 15lb on a 74 Bronco Daily Driver about 2 years ago with no prob they still work fine
    I thought the Delivery would take more but I'm going to try a set of 15's and see how they act

    Hope this helps
    MM64

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    BUT RATHER TO SKID IN BROADSIDE,
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  4. #4
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'm not much on electric solenoids to open and close stuff with, but it would seem to match the solenoid to the amount of pull it takes to release the latch. How about checking it with a fish scale and see how much it takes to release the latch, then get a solenoid that meets or exceeds that amount?? Make sure you have a backup manual release so you can get in the thing if you have electrical failure or a dead battery!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  5. #5
    Ed ke6bnl is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 50 ford F1, 53 chevy AD 3100, 48 Ford F1
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    Originally posted by Dave Severson
    I'm not much on electric solenoids to open and close stuff with, but it would seem to match the solenoid to the amount of pull it takes to release the latch. How about checking it with a fish scale and see how much it takes to release the latch, then get a solenoid that meets or exceeds that amount?? Make sure you have a backup manual release so you can get in the thing if you have electrical failure or a dead battery!!!
    That is exactly what I did for my 50 f1 pu it took 45 lbs to pull open so I would have to go with50lb but have yet to decide on going the shaved route. Ed ke6bnl
    Ed ke6bnl@juno.com
    1963 Ford Econoline 5 window
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  6. #6
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    madgrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I do mine old-school. I don't use remotes or alarms. On my sledd, I hid the buttons behind the mounting screw for the Yankee mirrors. Push the screw, and the door pops. All it needs is a microswitch, since I use Bosch relays. The mirror is actually attached from behind now.

    For solenoids, I needed a push-type that wasn't available. I used Toyota starter solenoids with a large washer and mounting bracket welded to the business-end. The washer keeps the plunger from jumping too far. Since I can adjust the end-stop, I don't need to worry about them being too powerful.
    Ensure that the path of least resistance is not you...

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