Thread: Adhesive for door patches

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Like dave said, getting a flange made will get you the strongest bond and you will need a flanging tool to make that. You also need good bare metal on both sides to make sure the adhesive bonds. For the bottom of the fender,you could use smaller pieces to patch in. You also may find a rounded piece from a donor fender that is good shape and patch that in.

016 Front left bumper mount.jpg
Thanks for all your feedback.
The doors are said to have wood frames in them that I'm planning on replacing. That will be easier for me because I have done a lot of woodwork through the years and have a lot of wood working equipment.
I'm planning a frame off build and I have a local oval track shop lined up to do the suspension and chassis work.
I'm just trying to get a handle on the whole project before I start spending cash. The more I save now leaves more for a better paint job.
The rust at the front of the front fenders and below the grill is also bad. See picture.
Questions I'm trying to answer:
1) Do I need a welder (or can I use just panel bond process) and
2) if so, should it be 115 volt or 230volt.
Some tell me to buy 230volt and some say 115V will suffice. 230V are $400 more and require me to add another circuit to my garage for another $100 in materials.
This is probably the only car I will use the welder on and all the chassis welding will be done by the track car shop.
I'm going for a 95% rebuild that will be a daily driver.
Thanks for all your help

I have a 115v welder and it can weld up to 3/16". The 115 welders will work just fine for doing bodywork.
With the 115 you can plug it in to any 110 outlet and it welds holes in body panels and spot pieces in . I would advise on getting a gas bottle for the welder. The gas will give you better welds. I know some say you can use a flux core wire without gas but I never liked the welds you get .
When you weld sheetmetal, you also want to use a small diameter wire like .023.
And when you get everything you need.....................just practice, practice, practice on old sheet metal till you get the settings correct for what thickness you are welding.

If I go the 115V route, I've got it narrowed to:
1) a Millermatic 140
Welders Direct: Millermatic 140 W/GLOVES
2) or a Lincoln welder from Sears
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
The Millermatic does 3/16 and has auto setup mode which would be good for a beginner like me.
The Lincoln will only do 1/8" and does not have the auto setting, but is significantly cheaper.
1) Is 1/8" good enough for body or will I regrett not having the extra thickness?
2) Will the Millermatic be worth the extra dollars?
Thanks