Thread: Benchtop Grinder for polishing
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12-20-2011 12:11 PM #1
Benchtop Grinder for polishing
I need to buy a new benchtop grinder.
I also would like to use it to polish parts.
Is there a specific type of grinder that would lend itself to polishing parts if I change out one side for a buffing wheel?
Thanks
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12-20-2011 12:25 PM #2
We've got a dedicated buffer but there is no magic to it. Any grinder that will accept the buffing pads will work fine. My Son just went to Northern and bought some rouge of different grits plus some new pads of different softness and did his Olds engine parts. It made a lot of difference. I am going to build a backsplash for the buffer because it sure slings the compound and strings from the pads.
Don
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12-20-2011 12:30 PM #3
you don't want a rest on the buffer. If your going to buff long or large parts you may want to mount it on a stand rather than a bench...one thing is certian when buffing HOLD the part tight.. I've had good peaces of trim turn into trash in a second . I have a bench grinder and a buffer the buffer is mounted on a plate welded to a pipe welded to a 15" car wheel and the wheel is filled with cement to help stop it from moving around... I would anchor it but then it would be out in the way when not in useLast edited by cffisher; 12-20-2011 at 12:34 PM.
Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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12-20-2011 12:32 PM #4
Most buffing is done at 3600RPM, while some, not all, grinders run at 1800. The nice thing with dedicated buffers is the extended shafts for working material around. A variable speed motor would be nice or if you have the space, maybe build a dual purpose belt drive version with a multi groove arbor, then you would have work around space plus the ability to change speeds, Baldor is the big name in buffing motors. Then there is the Eastwood/Harbor Fright "internationally built".Dave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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12-20-2011 12:53 PM #5
These guys have a good selection of supplies too:
caswellplating.comLast edited by robot; 12-20-2011 at 03:36 PM.
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12-20-2011 12:55 PM #6
You may be right about the speed difference and the extended shafts. Our buffing wheels do sit way out as opposed to the grinder wheels that are closer in. We got our buffer at Sears and it has been actually pretty good.
Don
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12-20-2011 01:29 PM #7
Thanks for all your helpful pointers.
Has anyone owned this combo unit from Harbor Freight?
8" Bench Grinder/Buffer
Might me a good compromise.
Has anyone owned similar combo unit they would recommend
Thanks
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12-20-2011 01:29 PM #8
I have a jacuzzi motor with a buffing pad. Not sure what the rpm's are, but it's really fast. What I did was use an old sewing machine pedal to control the speed. Cffisher isn't kidding about holding onto that part tight. Long pieces can be a bummer to do. The more pressure you put onto the wheel with the piece, the more different it's going to look. A bench grinder will work. You might have to put a small piece of pipe over the rod to get the pad to stick out further. Good luck. Practice makes perfect. I should add that buffing will not take out any scratches. None. Wet sanding will.Last edited by Trjohn57; 12-20-2011 at 01:32 PM.
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12-20-2011 02:04 PM #9
Mutt, since you asked...I use two Baldor 1/2 hp units...that way, I can have 4 wheels mounted. I label the grit to eliminate cross-contamination of the wheels. Using this, I can start with a more aggressive compound and move finer without having to stop and change wheels. These things can really launch a part if you get careless. Gloves and face protection are a must.
mike in tucson
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12-20-2011 02:31 PM #10
Mike brings a good point.
Is this staged approach the way most of you work when polishing?
If so then I could swap out the left side of the Harbor Freight polisher grinder when I'm polishing parts and swap it back to a grinder the rest of the time.
Mutt
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12-20-2011 02:40 PM #11
It takes a real buffer to do a decent job, it's got to have the longer shafts to make it possible to get odd shaped pieces polished. As Robot brought up, it takes different wheels and compounds to polish stainless and aluminum parts, not a simple deal at all. I have an old Baldor polisher, 3600 RPM version, stored away in the back of the shed for now. It cost a bunch to get it and all the right stuff to make it work, but it's worth it. I don't think a single sisal on a questionable grinder motor is going to yield satisfactory results.....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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12-20-2011 03:39 PM #12
If you go to the CaswellPlating.com site, they have a introductory instruction page so you can learn the basics. It tells about grits, speeds, etc. No first aid instructions, however.
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12-20-2011 03:42 PM #13
How much buffing/polishing are you planning on doing? Harbor Fright stuff will either work well or be a POS. Nad it will not do it commercially or for even a long time. If you are planning on doing a bunch of grinding, then a dedicated grinder is best and wont deposit nice little pieces of steel on your buff. And vice versaDave W
I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug
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12-20-2011 03:58 PM #14
Current plan is to build this '37 Buick and then enjoy it.
My wife wants an old T-bird so that is a possibility, I probably won't buy a project, car for that one. Just one that needs minor work.
Does anyone know if there a noticable difference in performance between a 6" & 8" polisher?
Mutt
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12-20-2011 04:21 PM #15
8" your 1" farther away from the flying parts.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
Thank you Roger. .
Another little bird