Thread: Radiator too tall

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Dave, I'm not sure what you mean by changed the angle from the firewall to the radiator. I want it to be the same. With the new radiator I can pretty much set it at the height I need and then modify (shorten) the shell to fit.

Originally Posted by TomJ

Dave, I'm not sure what you mean by changed the angle from the firewall to the radiator. I want it to be the same. With the new radiator I can pretty much set it at the height I need and then modify (shorten) the shell to fit.

Possibly I misunderstood you.

What I was saying is that if you move the radiator/shell forward a couple of inches you will change the angle from the firewall to that radiator

Oh yeah that is true. Problem is it's too high now and the angle is way off so I'm going to lower it to get the angle right but then the fan will hit the waterpump pulley so I have to move it forward. And so I'll have to make it a little lower to get the angle right. We're on the same page.

Really like the look of your pick-up. It's not something you see alot today and I like different. ..........good job!!!

Before hacking up the car take a look at a Zip's water pump riser. It raises the pump to a working level: Zip's Water Pump Riser Housing | Cooling | SoCal Sacramento Not promoting you buy from these guys, just the first link I came to for reference. Do a Google search and you'll find lots of info.

Then for a fan, Flex-a-lite makes a nice one that has a nearly flat front but moves a lot of air, comes in several sizes: FLEX A LITE NYLON COOLING FAN 17'' 6 BLADE | eBay Again, link just for info reference. My late buddy Bubba and I have used a few of these in tight quarters and they really solve a problem.

I think some of the folks not familiar with this particular kind of car don't realize that the rad sits right on top of the front crossmember, so dropping it isn't really feasilble. Well, you might could go 1/2" or so with some surgery, but usually not worth the effort. Moving the rad forward on a model a starts to make it look awkward, beside the interference with the light bar. Sometimes you can go a small bit without too much noticed, but more than an inch really starts to look peculiar.

Bob, I concidered that option but I didn't think I had enough room for the fan behind the radiator. I've read that this system uses a 6 cyl. Chevy water pump. I'll revisit that option. I'd love to be able to use my stock hood.

Bob, do you know what the deminsion is from the face of the head where the riser bolts on to the forward face of the fan?
Thanks Tom

You might want to do a google search for a copy of their install guide. From what I've seen it is about the same as a stock SBC short pump. They show 3 7/8 for the part of the housing with the pump mounted, but not to the mounting flange surface.

This looks like the ticket. I'm going to order one.

Hey Tom, what are the dimensions on your old radiator?? I have an A roadster with a Deuce Grille Shell with IFS--maybe it'll work???

Dave, Sorry I already sold it. I have a friend close by that is building a '28 RPU too and he takes all the parts I decide not to use.

Ok I'm sold on using the Zips riser but I have two questions. 1. It seems the Chev 6 cly pumps come with different length shafts. If I use the shorter one will I be able to get pulleys that line up? 2. My 265 heads don't have water ports in the side for the bypass line. I can either drill 3 -1/16 holes in the T-stat plate or I could route the water hose to the temp sender port in the intake manifold. I wonder which would be best. I'll also have to run my alt on the right as there is the oil filler tube on the left . Prolly need to cut that bracket on the left off for looks.

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Tom, I'm running a Zips riser on my 32 3-window. I had to make some 3/4" spacers to go between the riser and the block to get pulleys to line up, and I used a 1" fan spacer to get the fan closer to the radiator.

I measured approximately 7" from block to front of fan mount but that includes the spacers.
I've included the instructions that came with my riser, along with a shot of my engine so you can possibly see the spacers between block and riser. Hope this helps you in some way.

Mick

I got the Zips riser on with aluminum water pump and flex fan, Fabricated a fan shroud but havn't tried it for fit yet. I bought a period correct (1956) rochester and rebuilt it. moving along slowly.

The carb looks beeauuuutiful!! Great job cleaning it up!!