Thread: 'Need some advice',,

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Originally Posted by rumrumm

According to his website, Big Al uses CompCams in the engines he offers. But looking through my CC catalogue, I don't see those specs anywhere.

It also states that all turnkey engines are run on the dyno, so one would normally assume the ignition and carbs are dialed in. Let us know what Tri-C discovers.

Lynn, a lot of engine builders will have the cam companies grind cams to their specs, specific to their needs. This might explain why the numbers aren't in the catalog. Another tip, just because it says the engine was "run" on the dyno doesn't mean it was 'tuned' on the dyno, again, some engine builders will run the engine on the dyno so they can check for leaks, issues or apply a load to the engine for break-in purposes, etc. I'm sure Jerry can fill in the blanks here.

Mike

Originally Posted by 1bad32

....I'm gonna have a reputable Rod shop near Me check it out on monday{TRI-C hot rods}
Thanks Everyone for your help and I'll keep You all posted.

Since you're just taking it to a shop and asking them to find/fix your problem I don't see that it does much good to "bench race" the problems that it might be here, or am I missing something? Glad you're paying their hourly shop rates and not me.....

Originally Posted by Mike52

Lynn, a lot of engine builders will have the cam companies grind cams to their specs, specific to their needs. This might explain why the numbers aren't in the catalog. Another tip, just because it says the engine was "run" on the dyno doesn't mean it was 'tuned' on the dyno, again, some engine builders will run the engine on the dyno so they can check for leaks, issues or apply a load to the engine for break-in purposes, etc. I'm Jerry can fill in the blanks here.


Mike

Good point, Mike. I guess I should not assume all shops are as good as American Speed and others who will dial in the carbs and timing and provide you with the dyno sheet.

Guys,,,,like I said,,,it IS a Comp cam!!!!
Here is the card,,,,,what else????
Lynn,,,I will let You know what Tri-c says next week,
Thanks Guys

really who cares if its a wee bit rich with a blower far from abad deal with carbs it very well could need to be dailed in . i betting it has no chokes on the carbs ?? well its not going to be like a DFI . as far as the cam that BIG ALLS is using thats a comp tage not a fake deal as shown in last post has comps name on it have many paper print out s like that from them . cam may not be to bad as for unburnt fuel VS less over lap not to big of a deal. kills the low flying bugs is not to bad of a deal . i used bigger cams then that in my blowers builds raw gas is not driping out the EX at idle but if you live in a house with attached work shop not many hot rods with any cam and carbs on it will not stink it up cheap gas seems more offending were C16 smells so much better

Does building codes out there require a vapor barrier? here where the door of an attached garage door into living area there must be a raised floor, usually at least 6-8 inches or more--keeps those exhaust smells outta house

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Does building codes out there require a vapor barrier? here where the door of an attached garage door into living area there must be a raised floor, usually at least 6-8 inches or more--keeps those exhaust smells outta house

Originally Posted by 1bad32

You can park it at my place while your resolving this! Just leave me the key in case I need to move it around! I figure it's the least I can do for a fellow rodder right!?!?!

At least it would get a coast-to-coast break in even though I could garage it too, and I'm almost as far from him

Originally Posted by IC2

At least it would get a coast-to-coast break in even though I could garage it too, and I'm almost as far from him

Well, that's true.. bet we could "bed" the brakes too!

Just a route 66 drive would be nice in that---its already at the west end of 66 and I'm at the other end--well about 28 miles to the lake--

BigAl likely has that engine pig rich at idle. Most of his engines go into bodied cars with a hood etc and they richen the idle ckt as much as they can stand to keep the engine cool in traffic. An open bodied car with exposed engine will shed the heat so you can lean it out some.
What you are dealing with is 'new car blues' - you will have a ton of issues with everything from the brake light switch to the cushion under your butt. You will just have to work your way thru these issues by tweaking, changing, replacing and fixing until you get all that stuff to work together.
I think you'll find a fuel leak, all of it new and shiney the leak will be tough to spot. I bet you have -AN fittings, i would look where somebody screwed a npt male adaptor into where a port fitting (they have an 'o' ring seal) should have gone, like around the fuel regulator or distribution block splitting the lines to the carbs.

George,

Reviving this because I ran across something from one of the Aeroquip reps and thought of you. He said that I needed to stay clear of the white teflon lined stainless hoses because they tend emit fuel vapor. He suggested the new black teflon also made by Aerquip and sold on Plumbing Monkey's site. There may be other companies doing the same thing. Just a thought if you determine the fuel lines to be the issue. I still don't understand what the difference is between white (non conductive) and black (conductive) other than static electricity, but it seemed to be a concern for Aeroquip rep.

Quote from TechAFX: : PTFE conductive core hose solves the problem of fuel prematurely destroying rubber hose AND your car smelling like gas when sitting in the garage—sounds good to us!

David

David, good advice, go back and reread reply #2.

Mike

Thanks David,,,I don't think I have any "white teflon" lined hoses in My ride but I will certainly check it out.
I put a "cover" over the opening of my blower and that seems to have helped a lot since the 2 carbs are sitting right there and with no cover,the fumes can just roll out!