Thread: Stud welder

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I'll cut enough of the inner panel out to get to the dented area then. Now can someone tell me just what Pat Mccarthy just said??

I opened up the panel some last night. I used my longest, and widest carriage bolt I have, and gave it a couple of hits to see if it would move. Nothing. All it seems to do is spring back. I did pick up a porta power at a yard sale a few years ago, but it needs seals and I can't find any. I guess. Should buy that stud welder from Harbor Freight. The ones on ebay are pretty high even for used ones.

if you can not move it will a doly or the tip of a recking bar .no stud pulling is going to move it .you need to fine how to unlock the metal that takes many small points to pick up the low spot with a hammer or move it up with a bar . or spoon . i can not tell you how or what will work the best in your case you need the basic down how to move metal with body tools . i would say you do not have that. you really need a old JUNK fender to work learn on and not the side of your car.if you over work the metal then you have a oil can getting them out from over working the metal .then you need to shrink the metal . i seen many body man that had years of doing body work that could not do it or right

Well Thanks for your help. I will see if I can get it to come up some.. Just one more question. If heat makes the metalk more pliable.. Wouldn't heat down the crease, and a bar or whatever behind it push it up??

most all the time you want to cold work sheet metal .takes a very good body man to know were to put heat and not turn a panel in to junk

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

most all the time you want to cold work sheet metal .takes a very good body man to know were to put heat and not turn a panel in to junk

X2
Don't start playin with a torch unless ya know what yer doin !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You could turn that panel into a mess even a good bodyman wouldn't touch

Tried something a little different. I took a couple of woodworking clamps and put one side on a 2' piece of 1x4" lumber on bothe the front and the inside of the panel. Now there isn't any give from the window frame. I can now get the tire iron in there to push. If I push with the tire iron on the crease from the inside.. Should I hammer on both sides of the ridge on the outside while having pressure against the crease from the inside??

Thinking of getting one of these as well. Would also help with a couple of little dings I have on the front fenders..

Something that might help is to make a sandbag. Find a leather purse, fill it with sand and hang it from the window sill above the dented area so that the sandbag rests tight against the area you are working - on the outside. Now when you smack the panel on the inside the metal will meet with resistance instead of the entire area flexing. You might have to rig an additional brace outside to keep it tight against the fender.

An easier way = Cut out the area with a wiz wheel, straghten it , and weld back in, Duh !!!!!!!!
The same a puttin in a patch panel !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yep we had then hammers and dolys on sticks but you do not need to buy one for a one time deal .you can roll the face of a 1 by 3 steel weld it on a stick . i used a comma doly or a rail road doly if a had to ruff form metal

I will give it a go. At work now. Next day off is Tuesday.