Thread: Genie Vs Lokar

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I used a stock shifter from a 66 Mustang in the 73 F100 I had. It had a set of buckets from a 72 Cutlass and I made a console that ran from the buckets to the edge of the dash. All I did was add some length to the shift arm and it worked great. I also modified the 66 steering column collar to replace the collar on the truck as it was a column shift.

RUMRUM: Just some questions here. My '29 has a Gennie shifter with 12" stick on an R400 (No electric switch just centrifigal OD) and my wife is already complaining about leg room, although we are both about average height. She is 5' 6" and I also have the tall Gennie E-brake handle. My idea was to get the interior to look like an original Model A but if IC2 can accidently shift his Lokar with his knee maybe I don't want to switch to a Lokar. I was interested in RUMRUM's comment about a B&M Quicksilver in a '29 (Ford). My floor is totally flat since I cut out the big hump in the 'glass floor to make foot room. The Quicksilver is low and looks good except that it too has the separation between reverse and drive as only a lift on the knob for reverse. Can RUM RUM say whether the lift for reverse and park positions is a good block between reverse and drive or should I be looking at detent shifters?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I found the block between reverse and drive to be very effective. You have to lift the handle if you want go from drive all the way into park and vice versa. But you cannot go from drive to reverse or reverse to drive without pulling up on the handle. The ratchet feature comes into play when dropping down into lower gears from the drive position or going from low to drive. An extra push forward will take you from drive into neutral but you cannot pull the handle up in neutral as you have to pull it back into drive first. That is the only thing I thought was a little weird but it is simply something you have to get used to. The mechanism does not allow you to pull up on the handle and go from low to drive as that is part of the ratcheting. If I wanted to go from drive into low while sitting at a stop sign, it took two quick pulls back on the shifter handle (TH 350). Once I got the hang of how it worked, I really liked it. I never missed a shift with it.

Thanks for your reply RUMRUM. I decided against the Quicksilver because of it's size in my very small '29 roadster cockpit. I have ordered the Lokar based on the price considering I am trashing my present Gennie shifter. The main gain is the lockout for reverse and some slight increase in legroom for my wife on the passenger side. I may also replace my e-brake handle and go to a flat floor model. The main factor is that I wanted the original look but getting some comfort space on the passenger side is becoming increasingly important if I can ever convince my wife to "tour" a bit in the roadster. Another problem on the horizon is the need for side curtains but I can postpone that for a while. NOW FOR THE MAIN QUESTION TO IC2. In your earlier pictures the rod you modified to 5/16" appears to be only about 8" or so in your pictures. I hope to make the same improvement on my Lokar (700R4) and have ordered two precision ball/heim ends from Speedway but the hole in the ball end is 1/4" so most of the available ball/heim ends have the same threaded size as the ball hole. Thus did IC2 bore out the threaded hole to make it 5/16" or whittle down the diameter of the 5/16" rod to rethread it for the 1/4" female threads on the heim? It would appear easier to reduce the ends of the rod to 1/4" diameter before rethreading?

Don shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

My son and I just completed replacing my Gennie Shifter with a Lokar shifter. To clarify IC2's comment about shifing with his knee that does seem to be possible by accident but only among the forward gears, Reverse and Park are locked out from the forward gears by a sturdy ratchet. The Lokar unit is generally beefier than the Gennie in every part. I have installed the 1/4" threaded rod for now after noting that the Gennie rod was even weaker and appeared to be made from welding rod stock. The good news is that I did not have to change my Gennie e-brake because the mounting holes on the Gennie unit match those of the Lokar brackets! The only difference is that the two mounting bolts in the Gennie are M10 1.5 pitch and threaded into the side bracket. The Lokar unit just has non-threaded holes and uses 3/8"-24 SAE mounting bolts with Nylok nuts. The original contact phone number for the Gennie folks no longer works and it would appear that the Gennie shifter is no longer available. For those who want to update a Gennie it may be worth knowing that the Gennie e-brake will mount on the Lokar unit.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don, thanks for the info! I think I may just go with a Lokar unit, I do not know. I am hoping to have my 49 on the road in 2 weeks for the Steel In Motion car show in Shelby, NC, but so far it doesn't look like it will happen. My band is playing at the show and I wanted to drive the 49 up there but doesn't look good. I still need to install the wiring kit, exhaust, brake lines, fuel lines, fuel tank, brake booster/MC, fuel and brake pedals mounted, gauges mounted, seat mounted, shifter mounted and setup, and a handful of other small things. Also need to have the state inspector come out to pass it so I can receive my NC title in my name. No clue how this is all going to happen by myself...

FMX, boy you have a lot yet to do! I am reminded of my start date here of 2004! Realistically you need to allow for more than one full day to install the Lokar. It took me over two days with my son helping but that includes removing the Gennie and creative enlargment of the hole in the floor!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I have a B&M shifter in my truck, the original B&M in ther shifted excellent, no problems. My new one, is still in the adjustment phase, seems damb near impossible to get it to adjust for park, and neutral at the same time!

I'm also using a B&M,I love it works great. I'm on a th350
Stovens,your arm on tranny maybe off a little from detent,or you may some how have some slop in hiems of rod from tranny to stifter.
Just ideas to check

Thanks Dana
mine is on a Ford C6, and it is a cable shifter. There are several points of adjustment, but there definately seems to be a problem somewhere! May be just the base it is mounted to is a little loose?

B & M stout, positive, reliable and last a long time.