Thread: 39 Chevy Coupe - All Steel - having issue with gas tank

Tweet

Thanks for everyones help.....I ordered the pick up tube, check valve, another sending unit seal and the 2hole sending unit adapter plate....hopefully this works...then plug up return line....not sure how my dads frien was goin' to make it work....

the sending unit has 1bolt and just want to verify I have it wired correctly.....the pic is only for mock up....haven't yet screwed the unit to tank....but at least it's working for pulling fuel.

I won't swear by it - but - I think you've got it right. Good to hear it's pulling fuel now. Watch your ground(s) make sure both ends are clean and tight. If that's a female spade connection and it wiggles, it could cause you some reading errors at the meter.

I'm surprised that you have two wires to that single terminal, as I believe it is the (+) connection for your fuel gauge. My guess, looking at your wires, is that the green is going to the gauge, and the black is for ground but that is a pure guess. My sender, from AutoMeter, lands a single pink to the terminal shown, and a black to one of the screws holding the sender to the tank. That screw used for sender ground has to be clean, making good electrical contact. Does your fuel gauge work the way it's wired? If my guess is right you've got a dead short atop your sender right now, so you will have blown the fuse for your gauges.

Thanks....I poured a couple gallons but the meter reads as full tank. And they are closed end connectors. The tank is sitting level on floor. Ahhhhh...looks like I'm going to have to pick up an ohms meter to check this unit unless there's some other trick.

Originally Posted by OUTL4W

Thanks....I poured a couple gallons but the meter reads as full tank. And they are closed end connectors. The tank is sitting level on floor. Ahhhhh...looks like I'm going to have to pick up an ohms meter to check this unit unless there's some other trick.

Ohms is the quickest check - take the wires loose and check between the black & a good chassis ground to see if it's zero'd. Then the same with the green, I think will show infinity. Also take a quick look at your fuel gauge, if you can see it easily, and check the connection color? Might not be a continuous wire, but worth a look. Remember your tank has to be grounded to the chassis for the gauge circuit to work - sitting on the floor you need to connect tank to chassis. That's the kind of thing I often forget, then scratch my head as to why I cannot get a signal....

I tend to agree with analogy.

Very nice glad to see you have your fuel pick up problem resolved. On to the sending unit, the green wire goes to the gauge, the ground is established via the sending unit mounted with screws to the tank, then the tank mounted to the frame.

Here is the way it works, power to the gauge, one lug, then the wire on the other lug goes to the sending unit. That in turn goes to the resistor that the float is connected to, as the float rises and falls it is acting like a light dimmer and the fuel gauge is the bulb.

I see a big washer there get rid of that just a nut and wire lug needed. You could cause a short with the washer and the fuel gauge will not want to work.

Keep this up and you will be driving around in no time, hotrodding is problem solving one problem at a time. Then all of a sudden you're riding around living large, way cool...

I had to save your picture to my computah.. the make it bigger so I could see what you had and I have to stand corrected. Only 1 wire (from the gauge) goes onto the post and the ground goes under one of the hold down screws that secure the unit to the tank.

With the key on, the ground circuit connected and complete, you can operate the float outside of the tank and watch your gauge change position.

.