Thread: fuel sending unit MELTED

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Not to worry the gauges will only use what they need, look at the power rating as HP, even thou you may have 400 HP but drive around on 200......... no problem, the extra will be there when needed.

If the plan is to get the rally cluster and you can find the rally reducer now. Better get it while you can cause as the supply runs low the price will rise.

Ok, I got the stock reducer, and put it into the rally reducer case, and installed it. Guage still doesn't work, so I suppose the guage is bad.

So, the sending unit, reducer AND guage were bad.

Beautiful 60 degree sunny day here in GA, so I'm back working on it.

Pulled the seat and steering column to get the instrument cluster out. Ok, a little overkill, but I was able to locate and address some wiring issues on the column, and pulling the cluster was a snap. Only the fuel, oil, and temp gauges get power from the voltage reducer. And they are all pretty toasted. They are a delicate looking assembly, looks like resistive wire heats the arm, causing needle deflection. The fuel guage was shorted to case, I fixed that. The oil guage is burned open, maybe repairable. The temp guage I can't get the face off to really inspect, it is riveted on. But, it looks like it was perhaps shorted as well

OMG. The new sending unit is melted. AGAIN. That makes two.

If it wasn't for bad luck, you'd have none at all!!!

This car hates me

Feed it high test!

I do.

Just can't tell how much, till I fix the gas guage!

Oh, I forgot to mention... Had to replace the ignition module. Not even 200 miles on it.

This car hates me.

Besides over voltage on your instruments it sounds like you've got some amperage issues, pulling too much load through switches. Are you using relays for all the big loads?

Also, I'd suggest double checking ground connections.. even adding a ground wire between block and body and battery whenever possible. Don't trust a ground getting through a motor or tranny mount. It's just cheap insurance to protect components imho.

Thx, I'll look into it.

I ditched the electric fan with all associated wiring.
New alternator and regulator, but I'll check voltage soon as I get the pushrods straight ( pun intended)

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Thx, I'll look into it.

I ditched the electric fan with all associated wiring.
New alternator and regulator, but I'll check voltage soon as I get the pushrods straight ( pun intended)

Just curious, did your wiring for the electric fan include a relay or relays (if multi-speed) to carry the load of the fan?

Yes, summit unit with relay

If you still have the factory ammeter wiring in the car that could be the root of your problem. The connector at the firewall is probably toast.

I scored a near mint instrument cluster on eBay, and a new sending unit.

I think I'll use the electronic voltage reducer though.

I don't like how the stock reducer destroyed everything when it failed.

As a bonus, this one isn't hacked up for the radio.

Btw, retro style radios are available, but holy cow, they cost.