Thread: Vapor locking issue please help
-
07-25-2012 11:27 AM #16
My .02
Vapor lock: he sees it in the fuel line filter. He's insulated the lines and it got better.
Might need to tackle under hood temps.
Wrap the exhaust, see what can be done to lower engine operating temp.
Pull the air cleaner and look for fuel boiling out the carb when engine is shut down hot.
If so, then you have heat soak on carb as well.
Put a pressure guage on fuel line, and see what is really going on, don't guess.
Running a regulator and return line can heat the fuel in the tank, and potentially be counter productive.
Relocating the solenoid is a stop gap measure. The better bet is to wrap the exhaust and install a heat shield..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
08-17-2012 06:19 PM #17
Sorry for going so long without an update guys. School has started back up and its my senior year and ive been crazy busy with all the b.s that comes with it but heres a update for you guys!!
1. After replacing the quad with the 650cfm holly duel feed, Insulating my fuel lines, Installing the high output pump and taking the car to my local "carburetor God" and getting it tuned correctly the car runs as good as it can in this heat. It no longer will vapor lock while im going down the road it still will after i kill it if im driving it in the middle of the day like from 2-5 pm but the new holly pump is so strong i can literally here the pump change gears and push all that vapor out in a matter of seconds
2. I thank you guys for the advice about not wanting to crank being the starter overheating but it turned over fine its just wouldn't catch unless you held your foot to the floor.
3. My mechanic who has forgotten more than I will prob ever learn said that his old ford does the same thing when it gets to be summer time. He says its literally so hot under my hood that if i let the car sit more than 5-10 mins after getting up to op temp that its literally boiling all the fuel out of my cylinders and my carb bowl . He told me after it runs for a min the problem will be fixed but if i wanted to be sure that is what it was doing to crank it up when its hot and as soon as you can "get down " on it. He said it will die (which it did) but he also said thats because all the vapor hasnt left my engine or my carb bowl yet. I believe him too because I literally burned my hand opening my hood the other day and it still stings and its been about 3 days now. I really dont know what else to do . I trust the car for short distances in the summer but i havent really had anymore time spent on the side of the road since doing all this work!!
I would really like to thank you guys at chr yall give me great advice and I learn so much just from reading what you guys post! yall cant imagine what it means to me! The wyotech guys are doing several presentations at my school this year and its something I am seriously considering !
Thanks for all the help!
Slade
-
08-18-2012 12:19 PM #18
I had the same problem with mine, had a fuel filter that was inline close to the carb. I took it off mounted it about midway of the car on the frame rail it solver the prablem. It must have been to hot that close to the engine.
-
08-19-2012 06:35 PM #19
Yeah i think i kept bullet kicking for a few thousand more miles now hopefully!!
On my 76 Corvette I placed them on the left inner fenderwell, made for a short access to the alternator.
55 Wagon Progress