Thread: solinoids for stock latches

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Originally Posted by IC2

The wire goes through the door frame about half way up, usually below the door stop and in a loom Braided Stainless Wire Looms. There are also contact sets, but they are often not too great Dakota Digital Door Contacts

Dave,
I thought he was wondering about an emergency release "wire"/cable as opposed to electrical signal wires, but I could be wrong? As for the contacts to eliminate wires across the hinge gap, I've seen more of those abandoned after a time than I've seen working right.

Well Maybe I should only put in new latches. I want the doors to be safe. Only thing I really don't like about my exsiting mechs. is the fact that the keyed lock is on the passengers side. With these new latches, and if I just stayed with the original handles. Will it all work?? With the one that rspears showed me. Could I use the regular handles, and use them for power locks?? Didn't see anything as far as a fob to remotly pop the locks..

Originally Posted by rspears

Dave,
I thought he was wondering about an emergency release "wire"/cable as opposed to electrical signal wires, but I could be wrong? As for the contacts to eliminate wires across the hinge gap, I've seen more of those abandoned after a time than I've seen working right.

Roger -
That cable could go though the same or a separate wire loom, but end up in the front wheel well

Those @#$% contacts depend on perfect, repeatable door alignment and no corrosion - a virtual impossibility on a 75 y.o. car without new or rebuilt hinges and solid structure.

If buying either kit. Should I also get Bear Claw Latch Installation Kit Would this help with the install, or isn't needed??

Originally Posted by slantback37

If buying either kit. Should I also get Bear Claw Latch Installation Kit Would this help with the install, or isn't needed??

You need the 'kit' - it has the correctly sized panel with the cut outs for the latches