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  • 1 Post By HWORRELL
  • 1 Post By pepi

Thread: brake problem still
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Steel Warrior's Avatar
    Steel Warrior is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Coupe Convertible
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    brake problem still

     



    OK, I changed the front brake lines(to stainless ones) and replaced the master cylinder. Also replaced all the brake bleeders, new brake pads on front and ran three quarts of brake fluid through the system. Rear pads like new. Checked booster and vacuum. has 18 " at all times. I have a better pedal but still can't lock up the brakes. At 45 mph it glides to a stop. It has 4WDB with GM calipers and a new combination valve for disc/disc. Checked the calipers when on the jack stands. Push pedal and can't turn wheels. I have done everything you suggested. If I need to panic stop I'm up a creek. Any more ideas?

  2. #2
    cffisher's Avatar
    cffisher is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I see you said 3 quarts Wow... sounds like air to me..Have (while driving) tried to pump hrakes to lock up?Did you bench bleed the M/C? Try putting plugs in the M/C and push the pedal?? Then try pluged rear see what happens then plug front see what happens. There has to be an answer you just haven't found it yet. Good Luck
    Charlie
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  3. #3
    firebird77clone's Avatar
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    I never seem to be able to properly bench bleed a cylinder.

    Try this trick ( I'd be in trouble without it )
    Press the pedal very slowly, then release quickly, watching the fluid.. repeat.

    This will usually release trapped air, you'll see it bubble up.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  4. #4
    HWORRELL's Avatar
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    I have had instances where too hard of pads would do that. Maybe try a set of cheap organic pads and see what happens.
    rspears likes this.

  5. #5
    sunsetdart is offline Banned Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I have 4 whl disc and have 2 lb residual valves plumbed into both front & rear. I have no problems with a good pedal. The residual valve keep fluid from draining back in the lines which keeps the pedal tighter.

  6. #6
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    In your other post you said that there was a valve in the line to the rear--remove it, it can only reduce brake pressure--------

    You said that after a tight slow speed turn that the peday goes to the floor---check for rotor run out---pushes the pads back into the calipers

    Are these dual piston fixed or single piston floating calipers???

    After a couple of stops, check the temp of the rotors with your fingers----------be careful, but a burnt finger is what you want!!!!!!!!!!

    What brake fluid and have you ever mixed tem???? brands/types??????

  7. #7
    34_40's Avatar
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    HMmmmm.. looks like a spammer?

  8. #8
    mrmustang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    HMmmmm.. looks like a spammer?
    All gone........
    Instead of being part of the problem, be part of a successful solution.

  9. #9
    edward g. p.'s Avatar
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    This is probably a stupid attempt to help but this same type of thing happened to me and found my rubber brake lines swollen up and clogged with crap on the inside.

  10. #10
    rspears's Avatar
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    From his profile, Steel Warrior posted his problem, logged off five minutes later and has not been back since. He's never read any of the questions, comments or suggestions so the point seems moot. Then again, his track record is to go seven to nine months between questions...
    Roger
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  11. #11
    pepi's Avatar
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    Maybe using a dial up connection, waiting for the page to load.
    rspears likes this.
    I have two brains, one is lost and the other is out looking for it

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