Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: VICTORY!!!!! for me anyway...
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    madgrinder's Avatar
    madgrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Nashville, baby!
    Car Year, Make, Model: '64 Galaxie 500XL
    Posts
    304

    VICTORY!!!!! for me anyway...

     



    I finally got all of my gauges working on my latest beater. It's a 1982 Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel. The fuel gauge was stuck and the tach had a loose solder joint. All are repaired, working, and happy. I hope you understand how important a FUNCTIONING fuel gauge is on a diesel...if you run out, it takes no less than three fully charged batts to get primed again.

    I already installed a set of euro headlamps and signals. Desperately seeking euro-spec bumpers to match...
    Ensure that the path of least resistance is not you...

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Prattsville
    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
    Posts
    4,990

    Just wondering somtin on Diesel MB gagues, how do you get in back of the panel to put a new speedo cable in? My dad's snapped, his car is an '83 MB 240D with the 4 spd, if that makes a diffrence, he bought a repair manual to help with the head gasket ( ended up replacing the whole head ) replacement but, the only thing the book provided in an understandable mannor, was the valve gapping
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #3
    MrMopar64's Avatar
    MrMopar64 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Whittier So
    Car Year, Make, Model: 60 Rambler Sedan Delivery,64 Chop Top
    Posts
    294

    Re: VICTORY!!!!! for me anyway...

     



    Originally posted by madgrinder
    ...if you run out, it takes no less than three fully charged batts to get primed again.

    Did MB do away with the hand pump on the side of the fuel pump
    to prime the injectors?......... I learned the hard way on my sisters 80

    MM64
    "LIFE IS NOT A JOURNEY TO THE GRAVE WITH THE INTENTION OF ARRIVING SAFELY IN A PRETTY AND WELL PRESERVED BODY,

    BUT RATHER TO SKID IN BROADSIDE,
    THOROUGHLY USED UP, TOTALLY WORN OUT, AND LOUDLY PROCLAIMING:
    WOW.... WHAT A RIDE !!!"

  4. #4
    madgrinder's Avatar
    madgrinder is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Nashville, baby!
    Car Year, Make, Model: '64 Galaxie 500XL
    Posts
    304

    The hand pump is still there on the OM617 until '86. Mine has a new one now because they leak.

    If you ever need to prime one, buy a new hand pump first because the first pump on an old one will be on the ground! If you are stuck in BF Arizona somewhere and run out of fuel, DO NOT use the primer pump, because once it starts to leak the engine will never prime.

    Gauge cluster for Matt...the cluster is a "friction fit" into the dash. It is pressed into place into a rubber ring in the enclosure. The proper tool to remove it is a "T" handle attached to a 6" piece of 2mm spring steel, hooked at the end (called a "dash hook"). Available at the MB parts dept for $18.

    Now, you don't need it on an older car. Pull the lower dash cover on the driver side (3 screws, 2 clips). Reach up from underneath and PUSH the gauge cluster out about 5 inches. Sit in the seat now and reach behind the cluster to disconnect the speedo cable, three connectors, and oil line. You need a 10mm and 12mm wrench for the oil line. DO NOT loosen the oil line fitting without holding it with the 12mm wrench, it is a messy and expensive mistake when you break the gauge internally and black diesel oil gets on Palomino carpet.

    Go in the cluster and remove all three main "faces". Clean the inside of the bezels with a lint-free cloth and glass cleaner. Clean the gauge faces with the same. Go to the hardware store and buy a can of neon orange spray paint, spray some in a cap and use it to repaint your faded needles. Replace the 3 watt instrument bulbs, as they darken with age.

    Have fun, and you should have a very nice restored instrument cluster!!!
    Ensure that the path of least resistance is not you...

  5. #5
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Prattsville
    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
    Posts
    4,990

    Thanks, Mad. Now my dad and I can fix the speedo cable and, restore the cluster. We just pulled the car out of storage from the winter 2day.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink