Thread: VICTORY!!!!! for me anyway...
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03-26-2004 07:42 PM #1
VICTORY!!!!! for me anyway...
I finally got all of my gauges working on my latest beater. It's a 1982 Mercedes 300D Turbodiesel. The fuel gauge was stuck and the tach had a loose solder joint. All are repaired, working, and happy. I hope you understand how important a FUNCTIONING fuel gauge is on a diesel...if you run out, it takes no less than three fully charged batts to get primed again.
I already installed a set of euro headlamps and signals. Desperately seeking euro-spec bumpers to match...Ensure that the path of least resistance is not you...
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03-26-2004 08:14 PM #2
Just wondering somtin on Diesel MB gagues, how do you get in back of the panel to put a new speedo cable in? My dad's snapped, his car is an '83 MB 240D with the 4 spd, if that makes a diffrence, he bought a repair manual to help with the head gasket ( ended up replacing the whole head ) replacement but, the only thing the book provided in an understandable mannor, was the valve gappingYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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03-26-2004 09:05 PM #3
Re: VICTORY!!!!! for me anyway...
Originally posted by madgrinder
...if you run out, it takes no less than three fully charged batts to get primed again.
to prime the injectors?......... I learned the hard way on my sisters 80
MM64"LIFE IS NOT A JOURNEY TO THE GRAVE WITH THE INTENTION OF ARRIVING SAFELY IN A PRETTY AND WELL PRESERVED BODY,
BUT RATHER TO SKID IN BROADSIDE,
THOROUGHLY USED UP, TOTALLY WORN OUT, AND LOUDLY PROCLAIMING:
WOW.... WHAT A RIDE !!!"
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03-27-2004 05:57 AM #4
The hand pump is still there on the OM617 until '86. Mine has a new one now because they leak.
If you ever need to prime one, buy a new hand pump first because the first pump on an old one will be on the ground! If you are stuck in BF Arizona somewhere and run out of fuel, DO NOT use the primer pump, because once it starts to leak the engine will never prime.
Gauge cluster for Matt...the cluster is a "friction fit" into the dash. It is pressed into place into a rubber ring in the enclosure. The proper tool to remove it is a "T" handle attached to a 6" piece of 2mm spring steel, hooked at the end (called a "dash hook"). Available at the MB parts dept for $18.
Now, you don't need it on an older car. Pull the lower dash cover on the driver side (3 screws, 2 clips). Reach up from underneath and PUSH the gauge cluster out about 5 inches. Sit in the seat now and reach behind the cluster to disconnect the speedo cable, three connectors, and oil line. You need a 10mm and 12mm wrench for the oil line. DO NOT loosen the oil line fitting without holding it with the 12mm wrench, it is a messy and expensive mistake when you break the gauge internally and black diesel oil gets on Palomino carpet.
Go in the cluster and remove all three main "faces". Clean the inside of the bezels with a lint-free cloth and glass cleaner. Clean the gauge faces with the same. Go to the hardware store and buy a can of neon orange spray paint, spray some in a cap and use it to repaint your faded needles. Replace the 3 watt instrument bulbs, as they darken with age.
Have fun, and you should have a very nice restored instrument cluster!!!Ensure that the path of least resistance is not you...
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03-28-2004 06:20 PM #5
Thanks, Mad. Now my dad and I can fix the speedo cable and, restore the cluster. We just pulled the car out of storage from the winter 2day.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel