Thread: Front brakes dragging

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I’ve got a 1937 Dodge pickup mounted on an S10 frame with a 350 SBC/350 turbo that I started driving last year. The frame has the original S10 suspension and brakes Disc/Drum with an aftermarket under the floor pedal assembly with a 7” dual booster and a corvette style master cylinder.

It’s drives great but the brakes weren’t what I wanted so I replaced the drum rear end with a 2WD Blazer disc, during all the changes I also replaced the 7” dual booster with an 8” dual. Shortly after all these changes I started having random problems with the front disc dragging slightly. All the steel and rubber brake lines are new and it’s got 2 lb residual check valves on front and rear. I checked everything from the pedal assembly to the calipers and could not find anything wrong, I ended up replacing the master cylinder and front calipers with no fix. A few weeks ago I put the 7” booster back on and the problem went away. I’ve never had a booster with this problem, even though the pedal was retracting completely the second stage of the booster would stick and not retract completely especially when it got to operating temperature.

I'd contacted the company that sold me the booster and their tech said there's no way it was the booster.

The 8" booster was purchased off ebay from "gonefishing69", their customer service is the worst I've dealt with ever! I've called them several times about the problem and they finally agreed to sell me another booster for $30.00, they stated that "several people were sending them boosters from salvage yards for refunds/returns”. Even though I had proof of purchase they would not replace the booster even though it's only been 4 months, the problems actually started about five weeks after receiving it. I don’t appreciate being called a thief, this has cost me over 200.00 for the MC/calipers and a new 8” dual booster, not to mention all the labor.

I do not recommend purchasing any items from "gonefishing69" on ebay.

Thanks for the heads-up.. but.. not for nothing but the LAST place I buy important parts for any of my cars is fleabay!!

And your story is exactly why! Sorry your having a headache with your purchase and don't mean to infer anything bad on you but yours is a common story and another reason that venue has a bad reputation. There are a lot of good people also but, the reputation is not a good one.

Since you still have the 8" booster ( I think ) did you verify the measurement of the rod pressing into the master cylinder? It may be to long and causing the booster to slightly apply pressure. It's been known to happen!

I agree with you on the import parts issue, however I have not been able to find any made in the USA 8” dual boosters, I rarely see any parts made in the USA. Where would you purchase a booster that's made in the USA? I'm certain that there are a limited number of Chinese manufacturers so buying parts anywhere is a luck of the draw.

Yes I triple checked the pushrod clearance, I even went so far as to leave an extra 0.040 clearance. I bench tested the 8" booster and the pushrod on the master cylinder side would not retract completely when released, the dragging brakes got worse as operating temps increased. The dragging issue was erratic and was definitely related to temperature.

I think the secondary pushrod on the 8" booster may not have been lubricated properly when assembled causing it to hang when retracting, especially when hot.

I had this problem once on my Corvette. Brakes worked fine until you got on the brakes at the end of the 1/4 mile pass. They released fine, but then half way down the cool down lanes to the pits, the front brakes would lock up. I had to back my push rod off to compensate for piston retraction. I thought at first it was BS, but it's been perfect for 2 years, and then I upgraded to hydraboost. Adjusted the rod in the same manner, and no issues.

Once the dragging started I could get it to stop by jabbing the pedal a couple of times, if it were pushrod adjustment it would do it all the time.

I didn't mean to imply anything about an import part! I just wouldn't buy something so important from an ebay source.
That way if / when there's a problem I can stand in front of someone and look them in the eye!

I know, hindsight is 20/20.. and it sucks you've been having this problem with no support from who-ever sold it!

When it did work, did the 8" give you "better" braking over the 7"? Would it be worth having your 8" rebuilt / repaired?

I typed a reply yesterday and would have sworn I "posted" it! Like Mike says, too many problems with EvilBay to buy critical parts from unknowns. Too many sell parts as "New", and then when problems arise it changes to "Like New" (happened to me with cell phone batteries - selling used batteries as new). I might buy "bling" via EvilBay, but important stuff is either via NAPA, one of the other box stores, or trusted catalog sources like Speedway, Summit, Jegs, and specialty houses for early OEM parts. They live & die by customer service, or at least generally they do....

Have you tried working some lube into the pushrod in the booster??

PS: I'm another one that gave up on E-bay.... I still browse the site, but if the seller doesn't have a phone number to a legitimate store that I can call and verify that they are a "real" business, and not some clown selling junk out of his back room, I don't do business with them. That and the fact that E-Bay and Pay Pal have gotten totally stupid on their fees!

Just a small rant on Painless wiring. Part # 30821 .I bought a headlight relay to bring on both low and High at same time. They asker all the info and I told them 99 Suburban..They sent aackage that said 1999/2000 Suburban.. The kit was wrong it was for 2000 not 1999.Different wiring for those years..You have to jump through hoops to return this thing I paid 60+ dollars for pluss return shipping . They tell me that GM had 2 different wiring systems for 1999. So that is my fault.. Still don't have refund but they have had the part for about a week. I know this because I had to get them a tracking number. OK I'm done just shows they all have problems with parts.

Ok here’s a list of import part failures I’ve had -

I installed 2 NEW Orielly’s rear wheel cylinders on a 1970 Camaro two weeks later had to do an emergency stop, both cylinders failed completely

Got a brake light pressure switch from Speedway Motors and during a test drive the switch failed, fluid leaked out where the switches metal and plastic housings were crimped together

I rebuilt two rear disc calipers with rebuild kits from an online parts store, the caliper bores were perfect as were the pistons but after installation the rear brakes dragged. Either the o-rings were too large and/or swelled from the brake fluid.

Had a starter and alternator both fail within a few months from Orielly’s

Also had two different radiators leak, one was an import the other a Walker, both only lasted a few thousand miles.

I'm curious if O'Reilly's gave you any grief about part failure(s) when you're standing at the counter? Speedway.... I am less than thrilled with. They were glad to take my money on a set of coil over shocks that they spec'ed for me.. but when I determined they weren't correct for this installation, they are strangely absent and quiet!!! I guess my money isn't green enough for them so I'll spare them any grief of handling it!

Brake parts, Engine/ Transmission parts.. things like that I only buy from 1 local supplier. I've been dealing with them for 30 years. When I have an issue, they work hard to make sure I am happy and things are right. They know me and my vehicles, and when I arrive, I am treated like family.

Now, they may charge me a few dollars more per piece.. but I know they will back up any part and make sure it's right.

The piece of mind is worth every penny.

O'Reilly's is notorious for bad starters and alternators, new or rebuilt and they are so-so on water pumps. The home office is here in Springfield and there have been so many complaints it's not funny.

I think cheap made over priced parts are what we are stuck with. I put a brand new napa starter on my F-350 and I've went through 3 of them. Same problem with each one. After 6 months or so, the starter will stay engaged and keep cranking after the engine fires up. I've also had no real good luck with any electrical components from Orielly's and don't buy from them unless I absolutely have to.

Well sure sounds like the booster to me. Especially after it quit dealing you fits when you changed back to the 7 incher. Ford pickups in the 80's where notorious for that, a little engine compartment heat would make them swell and apply the front brakes.

Hworrell makes a very good point. No that he's said that, I've had equipment at work do the exact same thing.