Thread: Clutch trouble 1995 S10

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Have recently purchased a 1995 Chev S10 4X4 with 6 cyl
eng. and all of a sudden can't get it in gear with engine
running. Clutch pedal seems real weak as if it is not engaging.
Fluid level ok. I suspect clutch slave cylinder but never been
into to this before. Do they have any kind of adjustments?
Pedal does not seem to have any pressure on it. Will be few
days before can look into, and was just wondering if you think
I am on the right track. Thanks

There's no adjustment on the hydraulic clutch with internal slave/throw out bearing, and I think they come as a sealed set with the master, hose and slave as a unit. With the tranny in neutral try pumping the clutch pedal five or six times, ending with it fully down and then quickly see if it goes into gear smoothly. It sounds like you've got a clutch R&R in your future. Since you have to drop the tranny to change out the slave, I'd be ready to invest in a new pressure plate and disc, and maybe having the flywheel cleaned up with a milling machine cut depending on how it looks. It doesn't pay to scrimp with this type of internal slave.

WOW!!! Thanks, I did not realize the slave was
internal. Slave on old Nissan I had once was located
on outside of bellhousing. Sound like I'm in for a job.

Originally Posted by rdobbs

WOW!!! Thanks, I did not realize the slave was
internal. Slave on old Nissan I had once was located
on outside of bellhousing. Sound like I'm in for a job.

Woops! Looks like the '94 & '95 S10 had an external slave - Chevrolet S10 Dorman Clutch Slave Cylinder W0133-1854114 at Auto Parts Network That makes it a lot easier job! Just need to figure out if it's your master or the slave.

A tip: you can bleed the slave before it is mounted in position....this allows you to hold the slave cyl with
the bleed screw up.....easy to get the air bled that way.

To figure out what is going on, watch under the truck while someone pushes the clutch in and releases it. If the slave cyl is operating in and out, then it is OK...because it has enough force to push the clutch arm.

If you don't find a leak at the slave my bet is that your clutch master has shot craps, bleeding back instead of giving you full pressure to the slave. Have a buddy depress the clutch and watch it like Robot says, then have them pump it several times ending with it fully depressed. If your slave travel increases with the pumping your master is the problem, IMO.

Do your self a favor and replace both the master and slave. It'll save ya some grief.

Good info guys. Good to hear slave is on outside
of housing.I suppose the Master is located under the
reservior, but am just guessing. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by HWORRELL

Do your self a favor and replace both the master and slave. It'll save ya some grief.

Ok, I bought a new Master and Slave, but in process the old line was
rusty and a pin hole came in it while installation. Now I must buy a
new line (big pain to get out). When I get new line installed, what is
the best way to bleed the system? I would assume it would be about
the same as brakes. Thanks

Update: Up and running, Replaced Clutch master cyl and slave
cyl, repaired line, bled, and now everything ok.
Thanks for everyones' help.