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  • 1 Post By rspears
  • 1 Post By pat mccarthy

Thread: 235 chevy block
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    WGS53's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1953 chevy 150
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    235 chevy block

     



    Found out this morning that even though the engine runs very well it has a cracked block. Might look into getting block done with lock an stitch method. We still want to stay with a 235 and I have found several running engines. Some say for Manuel trans, some say for power glide. Is there a difference in these blocks or will one motor bolt up to either a power glide or a bell housing for a 3 speed. Haven't fooled with the 6cyl before, used to my SBC.

  2. #2
    cffisher's Avatar
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    The only thing I could see being different would be the crank. One would have a pilot brg. the other not ??
    Charlie
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  3. #3
    rspears's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    They were different. The Powerglide version in '53 had hydraulic lifters and a fully pressurized lubrication system, but those with manual tranny got solid lifters. In 1953 cars the solid-lifter version had 123 hp for standard transmissions and the hydraulic-lifter version had 136 hp (the Blue Flame) for Powerglide use. Here's a Wiki link that spells out the whole story - Chevrolet straight-6 engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
    Roger
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  4. #4
    WGS53's Avatar
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    rspears , I liked the link, lots of info, but it still didn't answer my question. Will any 235 bolt up to my bell housing? I have found several engines, although won't be numbers matching, I've found one for a powerglide, one out of a truck and one that doesn't say. All from the 50's. I will still need to see if my block can be stitched without disassemblely..

  5. #5
    rspears's Avatar
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    From what I see on line the crank in the powerglide version engine is drilled for a pilot bushing, and other than that they are identical and the bellhousing will bolt up to either engine. If you're looking at '53 engines I'd for sure go for the powerglide version for the pressurized oiling and hydraulic lifters, along with 13 added HP.
    glennsexton likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  6. #6
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    I believe the ’53s with powerglide transmissions used insert bearings while the manual trans ones still had babbit bearings. All ’54 and later used inserts. Either block will bolt up to your bellhousing.

  7. #7
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    FWIW, I would get me a rebuilt block and also check with these guys Stovebolt -- Old GM - GMC - Chevy Trucks! - - - they really helped me when I was doing my 235 sixer in the '56 Jimmy. Good Luck and let us know what you find out.

    Em
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  8. #8
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    i have used the inontite plugs and welded blocks / heads at my shop with very good luck the stitching is a good sound repair if you want snap a photo of crack if not very long and not in a bad spot . i would fix the block only if it is not busted inside. if runs good and you not rebuilding the engine there are ways it fix the crack cold with out taken the engine apart
    glennsexton likes this.
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  9. #9
    WGS53's Avatar
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    Thanks for the great info guys! Pat, if you were closer I'd bring it by. I'm going to keep looking for an engine and may pull this one this winter and see what I can get done. If I can find one or get this one repaired, I will do that. But if I need much more that that it will have to wait as we are wanting to do a motor in my camaro first.

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