Thread: fusible link question

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A year ago, I did a quick fix on the fusible link on my 73 charger, the main feed off the horn relay. Well, the patch gave out yesterday. This morning, I found a nice BUSS fuse holder, sealed with 12AWG, suitable to permanently replace the fusible link. Question is, what size fuse? I've got a 20 but think it might need a 30.

I'd try the 20 and if it blows I'd step up to 25 and 30 as a last resort. What you really need to do is to eliminate the ammeter.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

.....the main feed off the horn relay.

Do I understand right that this fuse, as the main feed off of the horn relay, is only feeding the horns? Has to be, right, because the output of the relay is only hot when the horn relay is energized by the horn ring contact? Or are you saying that the 12V feed to the relay is jumpered to feed other circuits, and this fuse/link is in the secondary feed? Just trying to understand....

Catalog

This explains the ammeter problem which is related to your problem.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Catalog

This explains the ammeter problem which is related to your problem.

Wow, Ken! What a GREAT article that is!! I bookmarked that one, re-titled to MOPAR Amp Gauge Problems. Thanks for posting - makes sense now....

I had a devil of a time with the 75 Duster I had until I stumbled upon that article. I found a voltmeter of about the same size as the ammeter and when I had installed it it almost looked factory.

My '71 Charger gave me several problems including a few melted terminal block positions, but the one that I recall most is when I turned the key "ON" and a tiny curl of white smoke came out of the steering column. Luckily I was at a friends house, and he knew enough to pull the wheel, and we found another connector getting hot. It still had the ammeter when I traded it away a year or so later.

The fusible link will handle the load a lot better than any fuse! I'd suggest replacing the link as the fuse will be a constant source of aggravation.

Been there, done it, bought the Tee shirt!

Originally Posted by 34_40

The fusible link will handle the load a lot better than any fuse! I'd suggest replacing the link as the fuse will be a constant source of aggravation.

Been there, done it, bought the Tee shirt!

Can't disagree about the load capacity of the link vs even a slo-blow fuse, but if you read that paper that Ken posted there is a real load problem with the way MOPAR did their wiring, and getting rid of the amp gauge is the right way. Pretty sure that Firebird77clone was posting about some melted connections on this Charger a while back?

Originally Posted by 34_40

The fusible link will handle the load a lot better than any fuse! I'd suggest replacing the link as the fuse will be a constant source of aggravation.

Been there, done it, bought the Tee shirt!

Actually a circuit breaker is the best solution, but not everyone has access to aircraft quality circuit breakers, been there, done that

Originally Posted by rspears

Can't disagree about the load capacity of the link vs even a slo-blow fuse, but if you read that paper that Ken posted there is a real load problem with the way MOPAR did their wiring, and getting rid of the amp gauge is the right way. Pretty sure that Firebird77clone was posting about some melted connections on this Charger a while back?

I didn't read the piece (yet) but your post did remind me that he did have an issue with melting parts.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Actually a circuit breaker is the best solution, but not everyone has access to aircraft quality circuit breakers, been there, done that

As long as a self-reset breaker isn't used, I'd agree. I haven't gone looking for them but I'd imagine they would be relatively easy to find using the internet. But it sounds like the real issue has been diagnosed and the fix is rather easy. So thanks for sharing that with us!

Ok, here goes:

The power feed to the fuseblock jumpers off the starter relay terminal. I think it was pretty common practice. It was my old Chevy truck which did the same thing, but off the horn relay.

Mine has a charge / discharge guage, is that an ammeter?

I never did really figure out what blew the link originally. I could pull the link from the parts car, but until I find the short, fuses are easier to replace.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Ok, here goes:

The power feed to the fuseblock jumpers off the starter relay terminal. I think it was pretty common practice. It was my old Chevy truck which did the same thing, but off the horn relay.

Mine has a charge / discharge guage, is that an ammeter?

I never did really figure out what blew the link originally. I could pull the link from the parts car, but until I find the short, fuses are easier to replace.

That relay is prone to failure, I always carried a spare in the Duster and yes you have an ammeter. Chrysler was the last to discontinue there use, doing so in the late 70's early 80's. It's not that difficult to eliminate and with a little time and energy you can replace it with a voltmeter in the original location as I did on the Duster I had.

Ok, I read the article, man that is good stuff!

I'll definitely have to make those mods.

Good deal, I don't know about you, but I'm not real crazy about car fires.