Thread: drive shaft out of aligment

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I've come across a problem that I'm stumped with. My driveshaft shoud be in a clean plane with the differential yoke but it's not. The difference is 6 degrees which is why I have a vibration. I recently raised both the back and front 2" being that the truck was sitting to low. In doing this I thought that raising both front and back the same amount would not knock the driveshaft aligment off, but it did. If I lower the front again 2" I would have one hell of a rake but again the truck would be sitting to low(would hit potholes with crossmember). Any suggestions?

What kind of rear suspension do you have?
Let me edit
I take it your talkin' about a 2 pc. drive shaft with a center Yoke support? If I'm on the same page to this point..........I would say move the yoke assembly up or down to line it up. If your going down you could easily add spacers, If you have to go up .....huuummmm.......... I guess you'd have to do some fabricating. Is there enough material in the yoke support to cut out a section and reweld it?

Edit #2
O.K.If I missed a page with the 2 pc. drive shaft idea, I would ask what rear suspension you have. If it's leafs, you could adjust it with wedge spacers to change the pinion angle. If the trans. it too high or too low you would have to change the engine mount or trans mount or a combo of the 2.

Here, read this over, it might help. The illustrations can be enlarged with a click of the mouse.
http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/0203sr_driving/

The rear suspension is a 9" ford with leaf springs. The angle from drive shaft to pinion is ok, where I'm off is drive shaft to differential yoke.

Here's some additional info to what we already discussed that might be helpful to others. This photo shows a good way to determinge the pinion angle. The protractor depicted is a $10 item at Sears, and probably other places.

To determine the trans output shaft angle, some folks will do a similar thing as depicted for the rear pinion, but if you don't have a spare yoke or not a reliable verticle surface on the rear of the trans, here's another way to do it using the bottom of the block.

Yup Bob, That's what I had in mind. Rear end is an easy fix. Engine/Trans. lil' more complicated, Especially if the car is already done. (frame painted, etc.).
Torch, Welder, Wrenches, ingenuity = straight drive line.

Should have Mentioned:
Even if the rear end is straight with the drive shaft now it may not be by the time you get the engine/trans. straight. You have to kinda' adjust them both back n' forth to get the whole assembly right. One affects the other.

Thank you both for your input. Will give it a try and see if I can fix the problem.