Thread: thread repair
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04-02-2014 09:01 AM #1
thread repair
This is a follow up to something I had posted about a while back: welding in a hole and re drilling and threading it.
I had decided that next time I would over drill the hole before I welded it back in. Well, the hole had already been oversized from an M4 to M5 and the threads were wallowed out, and I wanted to get back to the original fastener.
The hole was already oversize, the part was 5 mil thick mild steel. I used a copper flat bar between the part and the bench, and migged the hole shut. This time, I did NOT quench it! While it was still toasty, I ground the weld flat, and let it air cool from there. A badly abused transfer punch gave me center with the cap plate set in place. The tap index was missing the drills, so I eyeballed a drill laying about, and drilled it nice and slow using the end mill as a drill press; the vice on the drill press is junk. No problem drilling through the weld. The tap was a little tougher, and more than once I questioned the wisdom of not having miked the drill. But it was a nice spiral. The tap, and I went slow, no problems. The cap plate I left with oversized holes, it's not critical, and a couple washers under the fasteners will make it all good.
To sum up, the oversized holes seemed to make it go easier..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-02-2014 09:06 AM #2
If I may ask, did you not opt for a heli-coil because you wanted to get back to original fastener size?Last edited by MelloYello; 04-02-2014 at 09:08 AM.
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" I'm drinking from my saucer, 'cause my cup is overflowed ! "
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04-02-2014 10:07 AM #3
heli coils don't work good in thin stuff----he said 5 mm---just over 3/16 inch
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04-02-2014 11:41 AM #4
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Ive been through this several times in the past with the same good results. I tried Tig welding them closed once with the same wire that I Mig with E70s6 wire. No way I could drill through that weld. I think the using Mig and letting it cool naturally is the key. For what ever thats worth?Bob, Bob, & Bob
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04-02-2014 01:15 PM #5
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I've experienced the same as MT in I had a heck of a time trying to drill through my mig weld. I think the key is to walk away and let it cool all the way off. That isn't easy to do when you want to get it done.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
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Tire Sizes
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04-02-2014 06:38 PM #6
timeserts just pick up some 1/4 by 1/4 so they make them short not a big fan of hei-coils but still have some but use more timeserts now that i found them i am hooked on them . some stuff is a pain in the ass to thread . i need a 3/4 -16 hole drilled and tap in the nose of a new callies magnum crank to drive the oil pump mandrel only $1700 crank if i screwed up.. tap was crying as i lube the hell out of it.. i have some lube stuff will rust and thing it sets on or raw steel by it. but it works . as the tap is letting me know how much it is not liking the heat treated 4340 steel i was thinking it.s was going to rip and not thread or tap was going to bust off . but it did tap and never againLast edited by pat mccarthy; 04-02-2014 at 07:46 PM.
Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip
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04-02-2014 07:25 PM #7
I did a crank for my Monza Pro stocker oil pump drive years ago and left here without the bolt headed to Michigan US 131 drag strip---got the bolt over there somewhere at a supply house-----------lots of big mosquitoes there-----------
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04-02-2014 07:48 PM #8
Ok gang. It's been awhile. With everything that was going on taking care of my mom's affairs and making a few needed mods to the Healey, it was June before anything really got rolling on this...
My Little Red Muscle Truck