Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree9Likes

Thread: frame advice
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 21
  1. #1
    demano's Avatar
    demano is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    prescott
    Car Year, Make, Model: 28 tudor
    Posts
    20

    frame advice

     



    hello all, newbie here looking for some frame advice, i have a 1928 tudor that i need to build a frame for , i also have a 1970 429 ford and c6 combo that i would really like to use, was going to build the frame from 4"x2"x3/16" rec. tube, would this frame handle this also was thinking suicide front end and splitting the wishbones would this front end be able to support the big block combo, am going to get aluminum intake and water pump now, and maybe heads as i can afford them, any advice really appreciated, thanks

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    11,149

    Hey Demano, welcome to CHR! Are you going to do a tudor hiboy or a fendered car? Either way it's sounding like a great project.

    Others may disagree, but if you're up for building a frame from scratch I'd look at starting with a matched pair of repop rails instead of going straight tube. Speedway sells a set of Model A rails that would give you a period correct approach - 1928-31 Ford Model A Frame Rails - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
    But if you're going hiboy how about using a pair of '32 rails? I think that would be a killer look, especially with that big 429 hanging out there exposed to the world! American Stamping makes a great set of repop rails for the Deuce - American Stamping Corporation: Home Page
    If you need it there's also a good tubular crossmember or two from Speedway - 1932 crossmembers from Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop Pete & Jake's can help you out with parts like these, too.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    demano's Avatar
    demano is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    prescott
    Car Year, Make, Model: 28 tudor
    Posts
    20

    thanks for the welcome and info, would really like to start from scratch because of the front and rear z i want, the car will have no hood or fenders, just a little concerned if the suspension and frame will hold the engine combo, thanks again

  4. #4
    HWORRELL's Avatar
    HWORRELL is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    ST.LOUIS
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 FORD 5 WINDOW,69 442, 305 sprint car,
    Posts
    1,410

    90 or 125 wall 2X3 or 2x4 should work just fine.
    Dave Severson likes this.

  5. #5
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Springfield
    Car Year, Make, Model: '66 Mustang, 76 Corvette
    Posts
    5,374

    Project $ 3 K Is Underway

    Check out this thread
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  6. #6
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,704

    Welcome aboard! Good to see you here. Sounds like a neat project and we're hoping you'll consider a build thread here.

    personally I wouldn't use less than .125 (1/8") wall thickness.

  7. #7
    cffisher's Avatar
    cffisher is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Constantine
    Car Year, Make, Model: 57 chevy 2 dr wagon
    Posts
    9,476

    Welcome to CHR Enjoy your stay
    Charlie
    Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
    W8AMR
    http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
    Christian in training

  8. #8
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    2" x 4" x 0.125" wall will support any motor/trans combination you want to use. You may want to talk with these guys before you pull the trigger on making the rails yourself.....
    Automobile Chassis Manufacturer & Chassis Products | Auto Weld Chassis

    .
    HWORRELL likes this.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  9. #9
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    7,297
    Blog Entries
    1

    I'd make them myself if I was building a car like you're thinking of. The biggest thing I think would be a set back would be making sure you get it all squared before final welding and during. I'd like to build a new frame for my 40, but I won't until I have a jig set up. And that 2"x4" 3/16" wall should be plenty strong. I'd think about gusseting or plating the joints at the Z's just for cheap insurance.
    HWORRELL likes this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  10. #10
    M.T.'s Avatar
    M.T. is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Licking
    Car Year, Make, Model: To many to list and always changing
    Posts
    509
    Blog Entries
    2

    A bit off topic but something to think about.... Where is the car going to be Registered? Might want to think about whats involved in getting the numbers on an aftermarket frame if you build it from scratch? I think I would get all the registration work done before doing the mods. Then make sure when it's completed that the numbers on the frame are correct with the registration, how ever you want to accomplish that. I think I would be for modifying a stock frame or keep at least the portion of the old frame with the numbers stamped intacked if ya know what I mean? It sure would be a drag to go to all that work and find out you cant use it on the street? Believe me it happens! Just something to think about and what ever its worth?

    Having built several frames with both Moly tubing and original style rails just take your time and make sure everything is squared up nicely and tack everything together with strong tacks before welding it up. Double check everything after tacking. before you do the final weld clamp everthing down the best you can so the weld heat doesnt draw your frame out of square. Skip around when you weld and let the joints cool and normal tempeture before going to the next weldment. Just some tricks Ive learned over the years. Go for it and enjoy the process.

    What were you thinking Mig, Tig, or something else?
    Last edited by M.T.; 04-09-2014 at 03:58 PM.
    Bob, Bob, & Bob



    Change is Opportunity!

    Instagram=metaltwister

  11. #11
    sharpmark is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    rotorua/new zealand
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 oldsmobile sedan
    Posts
    339

    your in for a heck of a ride on this one mate!
    good advice given already and i'm looking forward to following along with this---take lots of pictures!
    good luck
    mark

  12. #12
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,704

    Just some thoughts and observations on registering / titling since I had to jump through the hurdles no so long ago.
    1. The DMV here in Mass. said you had to have the vehicle completed before they'd even look at it for a number, whether original or assigned.

    2. The new regs wont allow you a "home made frame". it must have a certification! And who gets certifications? The OEM's!

    3. Drivetrain is in the same catagory, the emissions, exhaust, fuel systems all need the certification number, even the rear axle must be within 10% of original!

    My car was one of the last to get through the "old" rules. I don't have to meet emissions and can have any engine / drivetrain combo, etc. Even cars built out of state and have a title are starting to be questioned about meeting the new rules. So the old days are gone at least here in Mass.! Heck, even the state Model "A" club members are screaming that they cannot register / title their restored cars! And these guys might be in their 70's and have owned the same car for 30 / 40 years.. They might've just had it off the road for a restore say 9 or 10 years ago, now they want to re-register it only to find they can't! It won't meet the new regs!

    I think the suggestion to verify the process of registration / titles should be performed so you are aware of all that is required going into this.
    NTFDAY and rspears like this.

  13. #13
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Way oversize on the frame!!!! 2 X 3 X .083 is the biggest I'd use, but then I use a few more gussets and crossmembers then most. As Richard and Howard mentioned, .125" is plenty heavy enough even for mild tubing! Proper structure is way more important when fabricating the mass.....
    HWORRELL and cffisher like this.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  14. #14
    40FordDeluxe's Avatar
    40FordDeluxe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Prairie City
    Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
    Posts
    7,297
    Blog Entries
    1

    I'd rather over build a little than have it be a weak structure. It is going to have a 460 so it'll definitely not be as light as most. The 3/16" might be over kill, but it can't hurt other than maybe some weight.
    M.T. likes this.
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  15. #15
    demano's Avatar
    demano is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    prescott
    Car Year, Make, Model: 28 tudor
    Posts
    20

    thanks for all the info it is really appreciated and helps put me at ease with my frame choice, will get pics as project kicks off

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink