Thread: 1940 Chevrolet Coupe Tech Questions

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I recently bought the 1940 Chevy coupe My dad finished building into a street rod in 1976. He sold it in August or September of the same year, and was killed in an automobile accident on October 1st, 1976. After searching for it for 22 years, it is now back in the family.

There were three owners after my dad sold it. The last two owners did change some things around. But, it still has the same paint/interior my dad had sprayed/installed.

The coupe originally had knee action suspension. Dad changed that to a straight axle. Second owner changed it to a Corvair suspension and some type of rack and pinion steering. After an extended drive, I have decided to replace the suspension and also the complete steering system including the steering column. The present set up has too many things wrong with it. Even if I would spend the time, money, and aggregation to try and fix it, I know that I would not like it. I have decided to go with a new Mustang II type IFS. I know there are several companies that make them. I would like to hear opinions on which ones would be best for my coupe. Also, are these bolt in or welded in? Do all new suspensions come with a rack and pinion? What type of springs should I order?

From the end of the steering column to the rack and pinion, it is connected by some type of flex cable. Personally, U don't trust this and want solid shafts and universal joints. The 350 motor does not have headers, just stock manifold connected to a new duel exhaust the previous owner had installed. My thinking is my first step is to replace the entire suspension. Then, buy a new steering column that tickles my fancy. But, before I install steering column and links it to the new rack and pinion, I should first have new headers installed. I also want to install power steering. Would this be the correct way to go?

After the front suspension and steering are finished, then come the brake system. It has a single bowl master cylinder, want to change that out and add duel bowl and power brakes. Also want to replace drum brakes with discs.

Do I have the above listed in the proper order they should be done?

As for the drive train, I got lucky. The gentlemen I bought it from replaced the 327 motor with a fresh crate (stock) 350. At the same time he replaced the 350TH transmission with a new 700R transmission. The second owner had replaced whatever rear end my dad had installed with a rear end out of a Nova. So the drive train is good as gold.

The last owner had also installed the following new items; starter, duel exhaust with Flowmaster mufflers, plastic 20 gallon gas tank, all aluminum radiator, 14" Craiger SS wheels, and Cooper Cobra tires.

The underside looks like a new car, very clean with no rust. The body, well, after 38 years, time has taken a small toll on the old girl. Doors, hood, trunk deck lid, and hood do not align properly. Lacquer paint is spider webbed. A few minor rust spots. Each from fender has a stress crack on top. Chrome will need redone. A few very little dings. But, for a 74 year old car and for being rebuilt 38 years ago, it is in great shape. The crushed green velvet interior has to go. It is faded and ripped in a few places. Plus, has an old smell to it.

I have a few body modifications Im thinking about. Plus a lot of ideas about the interior and updating things. But I'll save that for another post. Right now I would like to hear the members thoughts and advice on my present plans.

I have never done a build before. My experience is this, I was a mechanic in the Army and I have 1,800hrs. From a welding vo-tech school from back in the mid 80's. So although I have no experience with any of the above, I do understand the general concept, am handy with tools, and know my way around a shop.

Thanks in advance for all comments pro or con. This noob builder needs all the help he can get!!!


Bill

Forgot to add photo

[img] http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/WP_20140623_16_14_44_Pro.jpg[/img]

I think that first you need to identify those companies that will support your vehicle, by support I mean they make the pieces you need. Companies that you'll hear about are Heidts / Fatman / Kugal and there are others.

You'll need to gather all the frame dimensions and the locations of supporting components. Since the car has had 3 front suspension, you'll need to ensure that the front wheels end up in the location that you need / want them to!

Having the column or headers on hand right now is kind of secondary, you'll need to have an idea of where you want or need these components to land but right now you need to get the car apart, up on stands and gather the measurements, you need to verify where the new components will mount and the quality of those materials.

In your pictures the front wheel look centered in the wheel openings, if they are and that's acceptable you, then you can use the the spindle center line as a measure to meet. Just like working with a carpenter, measure twice and cut once!

Hope it helps.

Great story. Getting the car back and now getting to add your own touches.


Jack.

34_40,

Yes, front wheels are centered in fender well opening. I have previously looked at Fatman. They offer several different stages. I have also looked at Heidts. Both companies make a complete hub to hub front suspension with a rack and pinion for my year of car. I would like to hear members feedback concerning the quality of the product, instructions, and customer assistance. It will be awhile before I have the money to purchase a new suspension. But I'm a bit anal, and with a y project, I like to have a plan formulated. Since I have never undertaken anything like this, I was curious as to how I have things listed, would that be the correct order to do things?

Thank you for your input, it is greatly appreciated.

Bill

Thanks Jack. I still have to go take a peek out in the garage to make sure it isn't a dream!!!

Bill

Hi Bill! Welcome to CHR! What a great story of tracking down the car you helped your dad build so many years ago! Sounds like you are open to making changes and updates to the car, which is cool.
Perhaps, it's the camera angle on the side shot, but to me the front wheel definitely does NOT look centered in the wheel well. It appears to sit rearward quite a bit. The car also sits quite high and 14" wheels are certainly not the norm anymore.
It would probably be helpful to google search '40 Chevys and see how others have built their cars recently. That might help you sort out the direction you want to go with it.
Anyway, glad you're here and I look forward to more of your plans and following your progress!

Here's a link to some pics:https://www.google.com/search?newwin...00.LKv54EtG1is

Originally Posted by Bill Blust Jr.

34_40,

Yes, front wheels are centered in fender well opening. I have previously looked at Fatman. They offer several different stages. I have also looked at Heidts. Both companies make a complete hub to hub front suspension with a rack and pinion for my year of car. I would like to hear members feedback concerning the quality of the product, instructions, and customer assistance. It will be awhile before I have the money to purchase a new suspension. But I'm a bit anal, and with a y project, I like to have a plan formulated. Since I have never undertaken anything like this, I was curious as to how I have things listed, would that be the correct order to do things?

Thank you for your input, it is greatly appreciated. Bill

Like R2 stated, I don't think the front wheels are centered in the opening. Perhaps 2 inches to the rear?? But maybe it's the picture??

It's good that you can be a bit anal, changing a front suspension is a very detail oriented undertaking. And since you like planning, and have the time to do so, you can start by studying the structure and discovering the flaws of the current system. Things like those stress cracks you've pictured can be caused by broken, missing or damaged support from the frame. Now will be the time to discover those defects so they can be corrected.

There is always YouTube as a visual resource also, I wouldn't say everything there is done by an authority, but they will give you some ideas of what needs to be done.

Another member here says to "Plan the work, then work the plan"! Good advice and you'll also need to determine a budget! That's the hard part!!

Other guys will be along and offer their opinion(s) and advice, take notes and don't forget to keep an open mind. There are usually multiple ways to achieve the same goal..

I'll climb aboard on the wheel position. Before I read Mike's most recent post I was thinking maybe as much as 2" too far back in the wheel well, but you quickly agreed that they are "centered" so it may be the perspective, or like Mike mentioned that may be the "look" you like. To be crystal clear, when we say "centered in the wheel well" we're talking the position of the spindle front to back, not that the wheel is centered side to side (track). Picture angles can really make things look funky so measure, measure, measure and compare side to side, too. You'll want to get the front clip right first, because everything else indexes off of that, and the only right way to do it is to get the base assembly square with the frame in all three dimensions before you weld.

I think Fat Man is the better quality suspension out there. It is heavier made than most and I have never heard of one cracking. There are also "bolt in" suspensions available for your car that folks are happy with. Time for a little research on your part.
I agree about new tires and wheels. You will find a huge difference in looks. Not a fan of the sunroof, I would fill that if my car. When asking for opinions, remember it is your car and should be built to make you happy. Good Luck.

Thanks for the feedback guys, this is what I'm looking for, whether pro or con. After taking a closer look at the front wheels, I have discovered they do sit rearward a couple inches from the center of the wheel well. Good catch on that. I believe the original wheelbase was 113". Since the car body retains its stock dimensions, should I shoot for that measurement based on the location of the rear spindle, because it looks pretty well centered in wheel well opening? Or, base the new suspension location dead center of front fender well opening?

I believe the entire car sits too high and would like to drop it down a bit. Not sure of how much. Don't want a ground hugger. I'm thinking a 2" drop front and rear. Do you guys think that stance would be enough? Would I loose any handling? If I would switch from 14" to 17" wheels, wouldn't that negate the 2" drop? What would the maximum tire size I could install without having issues? Is the drop that is desired measured from the bottom of frame to the ground?

I'm not the kind of guy that goes with the latest fad. I understand that 14" wheels are out of style, but at the moment, I kind if like them. Maybe next week I'll change my mind. I really haven't given the wheels much thought.....maybe I should.

I agree that steering column and headers are not top priority at the moment. What I was trying to ask but failed to ask properly is this; after the new front suspension is installed, should I install new headers at this time before installing and repositioning new steering column, then route the linkage from steering column to rack and pinion? Or, finish entire steering and then find headers that will fit?

Thanks for the input guys, you have opened my eyes and filled my head with ideas. Now to go take some aspirin!!! LOL.


Thanks,
Bill

Since you're going to change out the front suspension you've got opportunity to do it to get the ride height set from scratch. Others may disagree, but I'd say you need to get the wheels and tires on hand that you intend to run, or at a minimum make the decision on the wheels front & rear, and then the tires you'll run to yield the OD so you can cut some plywood rollers to set ride height. Check where the 113" wheelbase sets the front wheel, but I'd set it for the look, not just to match some number. Going from 14" wheels to 17's can indeed negate some drop, but it might not depending on the profile of the tires you choose to run. I spent several months wandering around car shows only looking at stance, wheel & tire sizes before I settled on the rubber rake that I wanted for my hiboy coupe. You may like your 14" wheels, but start looking at tires and you're going to find that the tire guys are shying away from anything less than 16's so your tire choices get limited. Like Mike mentioned, spend a lot of time developing your plan, detail it out as much as you can and then work the plan. You'll find that deviating from the plan almost always has a price premium associated.

As Roger points out, when you do the front end kit, you will get a drop. By using dropped spindles you can go a couple of inches more. Do as he suggests and find a rubber rake you like on a car and work from there. Ideally, your rear tire should either match the diameter of the rear fender opening, no smaller, but it can be larger. Use that as a starting point for the rear.
As for 14" tires, there are still some out there but if buying new wheels I would go bigger. My 40 is a real old fashioned odd ball. Look carefully, it has 14" front tires and wheels and 15" rears. It looks ok because of the rubber rake and the match of the rear tire to opening. If I was starting from scratch like you, I would do 16" on front and 18" on rear. Again look at other cars and see what you like.