Thread: valve guides

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yep i call them speed liners Kline was big on them. goodson sell them as well and i think owns the rights to the winona coil guids they call them bronze-wall or bronze-wall2 as you can easly do a set on V8 heads all 16 guides in less then a hours time with the thin wall linners .i just never really cared much for them on some jobs for me it would just be more tooling. but i worked at a shop that used the thin wall liners with all tooling and ball broachs on hand you can fly threw a set of heads . there no need to worry about finding the right guide or needing a bigger O.D guide if some one been there before you. on heads the guides can be drove out and cost per job is a lot less with thin wall speed liners cost 1.25 per guide . on most stuff that had a guide i just drove the old ones out and put new in .stuff that had no guide to drive out i used 502 guides. but the cost per guide is much more in bronze Vs speed liners . new iron in 502 guide cost is not bad. on Oe stuff i line with iron 502 guids as cost is about 2.00 in bulk a guide . i feel alot better going with 502 guide as soon as you start driving the new guide you know right away if it feels to loose .i seen many speed liners move if done right they shoud be a sound repair .but there is about 3 companys that make them so if the wall of the guide as not for your tooling then bad thing can happen .i think some of the deal is not having all ball broachs as you get some shrink back with the thin walls they stop and hone or ream it to fit the valve guide size when they should run another ball broach threw ? well hard to say why they fall out many things can come in to play

I don't use ball broaches---I have set of tooling specific for them that is just like a knurling tool but sized for doing a spiral type expansion to the guide---then to size them to the valve have reamers plus the Sunnen Diaqmond hone stuff--


Got into the liner deal back when Manley came out with there .308 stem lightweight valves and also for other size stems in heads for the stock block Indy car racing---also put 351cleveland valves into bbc cut down those 3/8 stems to 5/16 or 11/32-----
Now on the RO7 chev heads with those 6 mm stems--------------


But I think that trying to put a liner in a totally wiped out guide could be disaster because you wouldn't maybe be taking out enough material to really get it centerlined to the seat-----

I actually have a BBC, a 454 out of a 75 motorhome. However, the economy being how it is(in the toilet) there just is not enough money around for that sort of thing. I find myself fortunate that I can keep one vehicle on the road. I was lucky in that I had a spare motor to keep the Broncamaro goin. These heads are looking more and more expensive so I may have to hold off until some more funds come along. I really appreciate all the technical input. Thanks guys.

you can get bbc guide in bronzes for bbc chevys if you want to drive the hole guide out for 11/32 you can buy them from PEP or put a 502 in for small stem od and can get valves is big as 2.350 intake for bbc as well as 2.400to 2.500 for big chief heads in 5/16and 11/32 stem. stainless steel valves in many stem height if you need them there is no need puting a 351 valve in a bbc head as 11/32 stem valves just not hard to find now if you need a long stem like big chief heads 6.600 long or 6.700 thats titum or stainless steel but can be on the shelf but in inconle ex 6.600 up that a custom made valve. but most all companys that make race valves have just about all engines covered but on that stuff that just plane weird i cross over and reworked valves or you can get any thing you want made . going 502 guide you can put any stem O,D in you want. linners like i said there is more then one company that makes linners all goodson and Kline use carbide sizing ball or stick . then when this is done you can hone it or ream it but many need to be broach first .less it is the winona spiral inserts or goodson bronze-wall 2s goodson still sell broachs for them to and i would ball broach them as well is with a thin guide you want to flow it in the old machined guide this helps lock it in and helps with honing or reame time much like a wrist pin bushing in rods i ball broach them run the sunnen bushing tool threw as well. then bore/ hone to size helps get the bushing to lock in and flows bushing out helps with transfer of heat as well as holding it in

Thanks again all you guys, I consider this information to be "Top of the line" and I am going to show them this stuff at the local machine shop. You guys should get together and write a book, Im serious, I know I would buy a copy. Thanks again

I actually was talking about doing a book with DennyW, but he got banned from here----------if you want you can search out his site--Dennysplace or something similar--don't think I can directly give you a link

Try denny's gettogether on google

to hell with a book i have over 10000 pages on here

Thats a lot of pages. Going back to what one of you guys said about two exhaust valves being side by side, I took my lazer thermometer and warmed up the motor Im running in the Broncamaro(71 chev 350/350) I had to put the stock cast iron manifolds(more on that later) The two exhaust ports in the middle were reading 60 to 80 degrees hotter than the two on the outside., measured on the manifold where it contacts the head. That seems like an awful lot, is there some way to compensate for that extra heat?