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Thread: Bone head mistake - POWER DOORS
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Jeri is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Bone head mistake - POWER DOORS

     



    Again I need some help with a dump thing I did today. I was working on my 40 Ford, and disconnected the battery ( located in the car) and closed the door.

    I have shaved door handles ( power doors) and the only way to get into the car is by pressing the button to activate the solenoid. As you know, no battery, no activating the solenoid.

    This is where I need some help from anyone who has gone though this bone head mistake.

    I will definitely appreciate your help as soon as possible.

    Jeri

  2. #2
    pepi's Avatar
    pepi is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Depends on how it is wired. Could try to connect jumper cables from a battery. POS + lead of battery to the large lug of the starter and catch a ground on the frame.

    Also look for a cable or some sort of manual pull, car needs manual access is case of a battery failure. Even if you get in using a jumped battery still look and find if there is manual access on at least one door.

    40 ford I'd look around the door jam area under the car, check both doors.

    Good luck on this
    Rrumbler and 36 sedan like this.
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  3. #3
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    A couple of thoughts come to mind but it will depend on how the car is built/wired.

    One would be a slim jim if you can fish it to the activating rod on the door latch.

    If you have a Chevy engine and it is wired where the main power is pulled from the main lug on the starter solenoid you might be able to crawl under the car with a jumper wire from a 12 volt battery (ground the car to the - side of the battery) you might be able to energize the circuits that way.

    Finally, if you can pull one of the taillight lenses and bulb you might be able to energize the circuits by back feeding thru the brake light wire.


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  4. #4
    36 sedan's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 36 Ford Sedan, 23 T Bucket
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    My battery is mounted behind the rear seat and has remote jumper posts mounted under my rear license plate, attaching a battery at the jumpers will allow my doors to be opened. I also have a remote cable operated door opener on my drivers door just incase the electric doesn't work and I have used it numerous times.

  5. #5
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    If you haven't gotten in to your car yet you could crawl under it and hook up a battery to the starter solenoid wire and open the doors.
    techinspector1 and 36 sedan like this.
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  6. #6
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    a 10 amp charger will pop the doors . been there done that . go to the solenoid or the alt post.
    cffisher and 36 sedan like this.

  7. #7
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    You could go to the starter and hook to the power lead with a battery or charger. Don't forget ya need a ground just like you are jump starting. Or directly to you entry button. Most times I install out side jump lugs for easy access in case of battery failure. I would also consider after you do get into the car fab a mechanical switch or lever so you don't have to rely on power all the time. Keep in mind incase of an accident you really should have another way in. Really hope this helps ! !

  8. #8
    Jeri is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks to all of you. I hooked up a spare battery to the starter and it worked. I definitely will hook up a mechanical switch. I don't want this to happen again.

    Again, I appreciate all the info.

    Jeri

  9. #9
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    Note to a bunch of guys crawling under the car, the hood opens with a manual latch unless changed. And I can't believe that someone installed power doors and did not include a manual latch. Hope you find one or I would question anything that goes wrong with the car. Builder should not have done that no matter how much of an amateur he might have been. Glad you are in, fix it.
    TooMany2count likes this.

  10. #10
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    Glad to see your back in.

  11. #11
    daveS53 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    My power doors have manual latches, but they're inside the car. Mine work with an Auto Loc remote, but I also have a separate circuit that can provide power to the latches, from outside the car. I use a separate circuit, on a different breaker, for added reliability.

    I've got two stainless steel allen head bolts in the fender well that will conduct power to the latch if a piece of metal contacts both bolts at the same time. One bolt head is hot at all times and the other is connected to the solenoid. Applying +12V to the correct bolt head, from outside the car would also activate the latch.

    I've got out of the car, left the key in the ignition or the engine running and shut the door. The emergency circuit has been used several times already.

    Having a fiberglass body also makes it easier to install the circuit, since the bolts through the body won't touch a ground source.
    Last edited by daveS53; 09-16-2014 at 03:33 PM.

  12. #12
    Jeri is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Scoot, you're right. I just got the car not too long ago and I thought there was a back up switch for just a situation like this. You can bet there will be one by the end of this weekend.
    Again, thanks for all the input guys. Always appreciate it.

  13. #13
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    I installed a hidden manual cable operated latch release on mine. Just in case the solenoid fuse blows, as solenoid won't work with a blown fuse (no matter were you jump it from). And, I have an alarm on mine that will disable the car and page me when activated, in case somebody finds the hidden latch.

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