Thread: rusty sheet metal clips

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Who has a good trick for dealing with rusty sheet metal clips?

I had a couple break on me tonight, but got lucky using needle nosed pliers to grab the back side.

Wow, not a single tip.

I was expecting to hear at least the likes of:

Apply heat first, if nothing else you'll get its attention

Soak it down with penetration oil and let it sit a day

Rock it back and forth to break the rust and work the oil in

Expect it to break - grab the back with vise grips before you start, if you can

Have a die grinder with cut off wheel ready

Put some navel jelly on the protruding bolt, let it sit a while

I missed this one when it was posted, but gotta say I don't know what a "sheet metal clip" is, other than a spring steel slip on "U" clip that goes over a hole at the edge of a panel to provide quick, cheap threads for an accessory fastener like this.

clip.jpg

Maybe if you'd of attached a picture of what you're asking about?

tighten first then back out. if spinning all the above .

Roger, isnt that picture of a Tinnerman nut?

Originally Posted by robot

Roger, isnt that picture of a Tinnerman nut?

I'm not familiar with that name, but apparently it was developed by Tinnerman. It's the picture that popped up when I tried to find "Sheet Metal Clip", and I still have no idea what that device (the sheet metal clip) is.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Who has a good trick for dealing with rusty sheet metal clips?
I had a couple break on me tonight, but got lucky using needle nosed pliers to grab the back side.

Not meaning to beat on you firebird, but you have presented me with an intro to vent one of my main pet peeves.
It seems everyone is in a big hurry today. They can't get it done or said or completed fast enough. Problem is, the conveyance of information sometimes is either shortened up or speeded up to the point that nobody can understand it. You know perfectly well what particular parts you are talking about and in your mind, you think others should automatically understand it also, without any detailed information.

Same way with passing verbal information on the telephone or in person. The person giving me his phone number knows it very well, well enough to deliver it to me in about 3 nanoseconds. Problem is, I've never heard it before, so it takes me a little time to put it together in my brain or to write it down. Many times, I have had to listen to a phone message 3 or 4 times to understand the phone number that the caller is leaving for me. For God's sake people, slow down and think about what you're doing. Try to understand that the person to whom you are conveying information starts with a blank slate and has to assimilate the information in his/her brain or has to write it down....and that takes time.

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I've never found a tip or procedure that works bing bang on these things. Usually it's a PITA requiring patience and a walk away break some times.

OK, I did some research, and I found TAPPED SHANK CLIP NUT perhaps best defines the gizmo.

And Tech: I think y'all have just spoiled me. You're a victim of your own success.

And, if I may say, thank you everyone here for all your help over the years.

That tapped shank clip nut is just a more robust version of the "Tinnerman Nut", so I don't feel so bad! Plus I learned another new name for them!

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Who has a good trick for dealing with rusty sheet metal clips?

I had a couple break on me tonight, but got lucky using needle nosed pliers to grab the back side.

Now I know what you're talking about, I thought you meant the clips for trim/moldings. As "Shine" said best luck is to tighten first to break the treads loose without spinning the clip. I always put a little mystery oil (or equivalent) on the treads and let them soak for a day (when I have the time).

There are several different types of these, be careful with the gaged nut type (nut is held by a small crimp), they tend to break the easiest. I prefer the the extruded nut type (the treads are in the extruded part of the clip), they seem to hold up the best for me. I use this type with fender bolts (bolt has a shoulder and the end is milled to align them easier) all the time in places where I can not reach the back side to hold the nut.

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You can also use riv-nuts, these go in like a rivet but have threads in them. Although they can spin a little easier.

36- those are the critters!

I made the original post during a break between bolts, having used marvel oil, rocking technique, short cheater bar, pretty much everything I mentioned except the torch and naval jelly. So yeah, I was sure hoping for a quick reply with the one perfect technique.

I'd have to say: worse than the clips was the carriage bolts in the bumper. I ended up torching the heads off.