Thread: New valve covers, but first...
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10-09-2014 12:39 PM #1
New valve covers, but first...
I'm going to install new cast aluminum valve covers on a 1970's vintage 302. The issue is that the covers arrived with a guide attached for a plug wire loom that I do not intend to use. They are small L bracket stainless pieces on both covers that appear to be attached with a rounded rivet-head looking pin (it does not go completely through the valve cover). I want to remove these things without damaging the finish. Any ideas?
Thanks, Mike
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10-09-2014 12:53 PM #2
Welcome to CHR, Mike. Without a picture I'm guessing that it's a blind rivet, peened into the hole to expand the shank and hold the bracket. You might get them out by prying under the edge of the bracket with a hard plastic wedge, like a piece of lexan or acrylic sanded to a wedge; but you might also center punch the head and use a larger drill to cut the head from the shank, releasing the bracket and leaving a stub rivet exposed. If you very carefully file down the remaining shank you might be able to get it flush, and then polish it out to blend in with the cover. Of course, you might also cut into the surrounding area and have to sand & polish a bigger spot, too.
How about just cutting the bracket down and leaving a tab in place?Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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10-09-2014 12:57 PM #3
The rivet looking pin is called a "drive screw" and it has spiral flutes on the sides so when it is pressed in, the flutes dig into the material. IF you could simply pull it out, you would use a rotation motion but not complete rotations like a screw. The only way to remove it is to carefully grind off the head to remove the bracket. To protect your surface, you can use some thick tape such as a couple of layers of duct tape. Use a small burr or wheel to slowly remove the head. After you have the head removed, the bracket should pry off. Now, you need to cut the screw flush with the surface OR perhaps you can grab the screw body and twist it out. Usually, they have right hand flutes so CCW rotation gets them out. Look up Drive Screws on the McMaster web page for more info.
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10-09-2014 01:35 PM #4
this is an interesting thread - - - - it sure would be nice for us "Novices" to see what You and Y'all are talking about and what finally evolves and how it finishes out - - - - - meller
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10-09-2014 01:52 PM #5
Thanks, guys. I think I'll try prying them out with a lil CCW motion if I can get a grip on them. If not, I'll break out the Dremel and try to lop the head off. I'll post some before & after pics, too.
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10-09-2014 02:16 PM #6
If it doesn't go well, and the brackets are in a good place on the top surface, you could cover any damage with a Ford Emblem... 302 emblem... or have a logo, cartoon, or lettering done by a brush artist.
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10-09-2014 04:35 PM #7
By the way, drive screws are used because the manufacturer doesnt have to tap a hole for a threaded fastener. They also dont vibrate out like a threaded fastener. You see a lot of them used in plastic parts.
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10-23-2014 01:57 PM #8
Well, I got the brackets off using the dremel and a grinding wheel. The new valve covers are installed and look pretty good. I have tried a couple of times to attach pictures here without any luck. Thanks for the help!
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10-23-2014 02:01 PM #9
BTW, Robot, I was in Tucson earlier this week and went out to Hotrods in Old Vail. Great place and a good lunch, bought a t-shirt. I think one of those would go over well here on the east coast.
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10-23-2014 02:14 PM #10
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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10-23-2014 02:17 PM #11
- Join Date
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- Car Year, Make, Model: 40 Ford Deluxe, 68 Corvette, 72&76 K30
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If you upload them to photobucket, resize them, and copy and paste the image link, you can post them directly to your post.Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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10-23-2014 05:25 PM #12
And since I'm in love with your avatar, flip the pics to me and I'll re-size and upload for you!
Welcome aboard!
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10-23-2014 05:37 PM #13
Miller205, I havent ever been to Hot Rods Old Vail because they had a "no guns" policy....dont know if that is still true however. I called them when they opened and they said that was their policy. The weather here has changed and this starts our car show season.....opposite of up north.
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10-25-2014 02:48 AM #14
Two good size shows Oct 25th in Phoenix,10th Annual KOOL-FM show at Westgate near the Cards Stadium and the Ford Deuce Show at Sanderson Ford.
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10-25-2014 05:30 PM #15
From Mike Miller... his beautiful car and the covers he was working on.
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel