Thread: Looking into buying a 1938 Ford

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He also realized that he would of never finished it either.Decided to go with electronic fuel injection for the fuel system also,I have a multi port fuel injection set up for a small block Chevrolet sitting around.I am not good with most carburetors.Going to drop it off on Thursday.Handed the payment,all cash this morning.

Are you familiar with the laws for titles and registration of your end product? You have a body on a different frame with a different engine, and Michigan does not seem to adhere to the vehicle classifications promulgated by SEMA. Just bringing it up, because it can get real expensive later on if you don't check beforehand.

The frame was bad when he bought it and the vin is on a plate made by a jeweler which will be mounted on the firewall

THAT is a big can of worms. You better start your homework.

I am getting the original frame which is butchered up with it too and I know where the vin is on the original frame.Lots of rust and the repairs were not done right to the frame.

Originally Posted by skylerc

The frame was bad when he bought it and the vin is on a plate made by a jeweler which will be mounted on the firewall

You're playing with fire there, my friend. Michigan has not adapted the SEMA model, and their laws/regulations are quite complex. Anyone who inspects that car will know that a VIN made by a jewler is not correct for that car. VINs in that era were stamped on the frame and various places per the following:

Quote from HAMB: VIN, V-ehicle I-dentification N-umber, for early Fords from 32-48 is found on the original transmission bellhousing above the inspection cover(pull floorboards to see this one),and near the front crossmember rivets on 37-48 cars and 37-47 Pickups. The number can also be found on top of the rail under the post at the back of the front door and at the rear crossmember on top of the rail.

Since all the VINs were on the frame for your '38, and you have a new frame, putting a new one on the firewall just wont pass muster. Having the original frame may help, though. Since you have the original frame and a legit title (I assume) you may be able to work it out. Still worth checking with the DMV, though.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

You're playing with fire there, my friend. Michigan has not adapted the SEMA model, and their laws/regulations are quite complex. Anyone who inspects that car will know that a VIN made by a jewler is not correct for that car. VINs in that era were stamped on the frame and various places per the following:

Quote from HAMB: VIN, V-ehicle I-dentification N-umber, for early Fords from 32-48 is found on the original transmission bellhousing above the inspection cover(pull floorboards to see this one),and near the front crossmember rivets on 37-48 cars and 37-47 Pickups. The number can also be found on top of the rail under the post at the back of the front door and at the rear crossmember on top of the rail.

Since all the VINs were on the frame for your '38, and you have a new frame, putting a new one on the firewall just wont pass muster. Having the original frame may help, though. Since you have the original frame and a legit title (I assume) you may be able to work it out. Still worth checking with the DMV, though.

The title is clean and green.The engine and transmission he still has and getting this also.Wrote down the vin from the bellhousing on the transmission.This is what I found so far
Michigan has a process for titling an owner built vehicle, which is what many hot rods are. You are required to have receipts from major components of the vehicle (body, frame, engine, etc.) and get the application from the Secretary of State office. The vehicle will be inspected by an officer of the law (you can pick which police agency you go to) and must comply with a standard set of rules such as lights, turn signals, etc. Emission certification is not required. However, many choose to go with an original title for the modified car. This is much simpler as no inspection is required. Historic license plates are available from the state with 10 year renewal cycle.

If the vehicle has been unregistered for several years, there will be no record of the vehicle in the state's computer files. Just go to the Secretary of State office and request a new title to replace the title you "lost". Your age and the age of the vehicle must balance with the length of time the title has been "lost". Just be sure the vehicle is not listed as stolen in another state.

If you are restoring or rodding a vehicle with an intact VIN tag or stamping (on those without tags) and are missing the title, then you can get a form for a new title from the Secretary of State office. Fill out the form and have a police officer verify the tag and sign the form. Bring the form back to the SOS and the state will send a new title.

Good job. That is exactly the research you needed to do.

Luckily I know a cop that will do it,he does this.I do have the receipt for the 350 from a junkyard including the transmission.Have the receipt for the frame also.

Nice score on the 38! That's a steal for sure!

It was a good deal and all the parts are there.I have a complete floor coming,ordered that this morning.I am having my good auto body guy/painter Gus do the body work and paint job since I am not good at this.Paying some money and a trade for a case of Jim Beam Devil's Cut whiskey.

Just make sure you give him the whiskey "AFTER" the job is done!

I am getting the whiskey,he goes across state lines getting liquor cheaper.I am already making him happy,not a lot of dents and rust to deal with.I have the engine,a 350 Chevy already torn down which the block and crankshaft is at the machine shop including the RHS vortec heads I am using which are being ported including the special intake.