Thread: 73 charger the saga

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One fitting needed an additional half turn, to remedy a small leak. Otherwise, no surprises. Except, perhaps, the mud dauber wasp tubes on the headders. Oh, I did get that wrench made, and as for the nut, I coupled an extra half inch drive socket to the nut, using a short spacer cut from some emt.

Today I got a good look at my previous work, and saw a bunch of pin holes, so I fixed that.

Then I tackled the passenger rear quarter. Turns out I didn't get enough overlap for me to weld up the inner and outer panels along the lip. So, I drilled a series of holes and plug welded the two panels together.

The drivers side was a very good fit, and I was easily able to butt weld the entire length, grind pretty, spot weld the pin holes, and grind smooth. Sprayed some Krylon, and undercoat. The rust repair on the rear lower quarters is done.

Also today I broke out the gas axe, and got rid of some old exhaust hangers. Then I repaired the rear frame rails. It looked to me as if a trailer hitch had been attached, and subsequently overloaded, ripping the bolts out. Anyway, I heat and beat the damaged steel back into place. I also used the same technique to repair a couple small puckers in the rear bumper.

Last night, I ordered assorted clip nuts and fender washers. I'll need the nuts for the rear valence panel. Speaking of which, tonight I cleaned it up and dollied out its dings and straightened its brackets.

Amazing what one can see with the car up in the air.

I decided to re-work the pass side running board. Where I used the pull studs, I had little bumps. I heated each one cherry red, and knocked it down with a small ball pein. The area could use a little more attention.

It sounds like you're making great progress! Congrats on getting the hoist up and working too!

Just curious, did you find a used lift locally?

Working out a wrinkle near body line

I forgot to search for a used one.

Thx on the congrats.

A pitiful little to report for a three-day weekend, but little is better than none. My clip nuts assortment came in, so I remounted the rear pan using some 1/4-20s fender bolts. Then I finished repairing the rear frame rail where the bolts ripped out from trailer hitch. I even did a fair job of overhead welding. My MIG works right nice. Then I grabbed a body hammer and finessed a couple bent pieces which escaped my attention until I was able to look at it on a lift. Next, I want to pressure wash the under carriage, then undercoat.

Natural ceramics, a positive additional addition to the heat wrap.

Today, I detailed the bottom edges of the sheet metal. I dollied out some wrinkles, removed some trim clip studs, and welded in and ground smooth trim screw holes.

Then, I grabbed the chatter gun and lowered the front end, with the height adjuster screw. Can't wait to test drive it, and see if it handles different.

Ground out 3/8" bondo, beat it flat, desperately trying to restore the body line

Having driven the steaming turd, the handling actually improved a tad. The front wheels were up on their tip-toes, was part of the squirrelly handling. When I put the rear back where it belongs, it might track.

A better picture of the ceramic type heat insulation.

The new stance. Rear springs de-arched

Yes it handles better, yes YOU TOLD ME SO.

I may lower it more, but the exhaust needs to be completely reworked first.

I hope this doesn't double post.

The new stance. Leaf springs de arched and kept the coil over shocks. After the exhaust is reworked I can ditch the coil overs and it will sit an inch lower.