Thread: Best piston ring compressor

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What make, kind piston ring compressor do you guys recommend?
I have used the old coil type for years, but have problems installing
Mahle pistons and rings. I have already bent 2 oil rings.

You might give the sleeve type a try

I like to use these when I have the correct size. They have several different sizes of these.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wi...FQooaQodhUoBSQ

Like Ryan, I like the sleeve type, the problem is you need to have the correct one for the engine.

I picked up a Lisle 21700 a few years ago and it seems to do a good job for me.

Lisle 21700 - Ring Compressor | O'Reilly Auto Parts

The trick is once you have the piston started in the hole to tap the top of the compressor with a small hammer to make sure it's squarely seated on the block.

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Originally Posted by rdobbs

What make, kind piston ring compressor do you guys recommend?
I have used the old coil type for years, but have problems installing
Mahle pistons and rings. I have already bent 2 oil rings.

Check your end gap on your rings.

I've been using one of these on the diesels when I don't have the sleeve type. I have a 4-6" one too.

Bobstools - Lisle Ring Compressor - 7" - 10" (height 7")

The only things that I don't like about it are: It's sharp on the edges so handle it carefully. And the biggest, make sure the ends are flush. The outer liner will want to slip down and this can allow a ring to pop out and cause you issues. I've broken a ring not paying attention. I'm more aware now. Haha

Could it be time to replace your ring compressor?

Thing with the band type, or any of them probably, the feat should be accomplished with a good rap of the hammer handle. If that doesn't get it, it's kind of a do over.

Damaged rings says to me, excessive force. When everything is right, a good rap ( of the hammer handle end ) should seat the piston in the bore.

Yep, I did tap them to hard. Forgot to mention I tried the sleeve
from summit but did not work either. I got me a Lisle 21700 today,
and will give it a try. Beyond that I guess I'll load it up and take
it to a Pro machine shop.

At the risk of sounding redundant, I'll say it again "check the end gap on your rings". I have had new rings so tight out of the box they won't enter the bore without filing the end gap properly.

".....At the risk of sounding redundant, I'll say it again "check the end gap on your rings". I have had new rings so tight out of the box they won't enter the bore without filing the end gap properly. ....."

X2

I've got an old one of those Lisle - 7" - 10" Ring Compressors too Ryan, along with a stone type glaze breaker and ridge ream in the same size range. Back when dad was farming in the 50-60s, he preferred John Deere 2 cylinder tractors. Over the years I remember him rebuilding all 3 of the ones we farmed with. I inherited the tools a few years back after dad passed. I've never personally had a need to use them, but they do bring a smile to my face every time I happen to open the drawer I store them in.


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Originally Posted by 36 sedan

At the risk of sounding redundant, I'll say it again "check the end gap on your rings". I have had new rings so tight out of the box they won't enter the bore without filing the end gap properly.

File fitted the top two rings. It's the bottom oil ring that is giving
me trouble. Never had a problem before (ever) but these Mahle pistons
and especially the oil ring seem very narrow.

Clamp you ring compressing tool on so it is slightly below the oil ring about 1/8", using a .0002 feeler gauge and see if it will slip between the clamp and the piston. If the gauge goes into the gap the ring is not compressing enough into the piston slot, may need different rings.

So do you have a small chamfer at the top of your bore??

That and the fact that pistons are smaller diameter in the ring land area than the bottom of the skirts creates a situation where some of the small rail oil rings will pop out of the ring compressoras they go below it and expand enough that they won't go into the cylinder.
also where the wind up type compressors overlap they will also be an extra area of wider gap where the ends of the oil rails will jump out----being careful with the clocking of the rails and where the lap of the compressor gap is can help--but IF you do have a champer at the top of bore you are pretty much hosed!!!!!!!!!!