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Thread: Mini Hot Rod
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    eboy's Avatar
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    Cool Mini Hot Rod

     



    Alright guys, help me out here. I had a stupid idea and I just want to run it past you to see if you have any input.
    I have a 1974 Harley Davidson golf cart that just recently craped out on us. While I had the top off working on it I noticed the frame is much like the frame on an old hot rod. (only a lot smaller of course) The read end that engages the wheels is on the far left side and not in the center. I wanted to rip out the old motor and try to invent a little rod! Do you have any ideas on how to hook up to the rearend? With it being so far to the side I can't think of a way to get power to it. Just a thought, a weekend project while I wait for the parts on my Bird.

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Body only

    height 17"
    width 10" - 26"
    length 74"
    wheel base 40"



    $360.00



    1934 Ford pedal or go kart bodie.

    Just mod the frame to fit this bodie, power it with a 5 horse Briggs engine.

    Get it at this site http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/34forstylroa.html
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #3
    eboy's Avatar
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    You're awsome! That's exactly what I wanted to build. And here I thought I had an original idea. Oh well, as long as I know it'll work.....Thanks.
    Wasted days and wasted nights............

  4. #4
    eboy's Avatar
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    Thanks Matt167, but if I had 400 to spend on that and the shipping I would have the Bird up and running. I kidda wanted to fab the body myself anyway. How and where do you mount the Briggs? Oh well, I figure it out as I go I suppose.
    Wasted days and wasted nights............

  5. #5
    Matt167's Avatar
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    You would need to get a Go kart rear axle, www.gokartsupply.com sh, mould hould have one, you just bolt the axle to the frame, the sprocket on the axle should be set up to use #420 roller chain, so just mount the engine in line with the sprocket, put a centrifugal clutch on the motor and, bolt it up. Bodies can be made out of anything, even louan plywood would work good but, it would be angular and not smooth, doing your own fiberglass would be very time consuming and hard. www.americanstreetrod.com has the same '34 Ford for $295 but that's still kinda expenasive.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  6. #6
    eboy's Avatar
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    I toyed with the idea of sheet metal. I had a little laying around and would be easy to shape and paint.
    Wasted days and wasted nights............

  7. #7
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Sheetmetal would deffinetly work good, 2 old tires mounted on rims would allow for smooth bends, just roll the metal around the tire, straighten what needs to be straightend to get the desired curve.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  8. #8
    eboy's Avatar
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    Good idea... What about a grill? Expensive huh?
    Wasted days and wasted nights............

  9. #9
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    Ok I have to go agains the Brigg's idea. A 5 horse power isn't the fast or tuff to handle something like that. Of course it will push it along and all but trust me, it isn't enough. I say to go with a Lifan engine. They aren't like brigg's with the shifting. On these you can go with a 70cc, 90cc, 100cc or 110cc. They are more reliable and can be reaplaced with Honda parts straight over because this is basically a Honda "replica" I guess you would call it but instead of done with imperfections like all engines that come off the line from being made by machines, these have no flaws or nothing. Lifan is an ISO 9001 certified company that manufactures over one million units per year. ISO 9001 means that all of the engines are made under strict quality control, monitored and certified by the International Standards Organization. This is a big deal, because many of the parts of an internal combustion engine cannot be evaluated by eye. The tolerances and metallurgy are of utmost importance and must be consistent with all manufacturing thus needing an ISO 9001 certification. Logistics are always a concern when dealing with an overseas product. Lifan engines still shift in the classic pattern three or four down while Honda's now shift up. The only change that Lifan has implemented is the CDI or capacitive discharge ignition, eliminating points and condensers. But other than that, I would go with one of those. To power this to the rear end, I say go with a chain drive of some sort, just fabricate one of your own. Well I don't know what else to say so good luck.
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  10. #10
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Originally posted by eboy
    Good idea... What about a grill? Expensive huh?
    Oh, a grill you need. Just take like small diamater steel dowels, cut bend them with a torch over a 55 galon steel drum for curve in desired places , weld them into an angle iron frame which would bolt to the body, you could also use tubular steel frame, you could cheap out and spray paint it with rattle can chrome or, paint it gloss black or even, if money allowed it get it chromed.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  11. #11
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
    Ok I have to go agains the Brigg's idea. A 5 horse power isn't the fast or tuff to handle something like that. Of course it will push it along and all but trust me, it isn't enough. I say to go with a Lifan engine. They aren't like brigg's with the shifting. On these you can go with a 70cc, 90cc, 100cc or 110cc. They are more reliable and can be reaplaced with Honda parts straight over because this is basically a Honda "replica" I guess you would call it but instead of done with imperfections like all engines that come off the line from being made by machines, these have no flaws or nothing. Lifan is an ISO 9001 certified company that manufactures over one million units per year. ISO 9001 means that all of the engines are made under strict quality control, monitored and certified by the International Standards Organization. This is a big deal, because many of the parts of an internal combustion engine cannot be evaluated by eye. The tolerances and metallurgy are of utmost importance and must be consistent with all manufacturing thus needing an ISO 9001 certification. Logistics are always a concern when dealing with an overseas product. Lifan engines still shift in the classic pattern three or four down while Honda's now shift up. The only change that Lifan has implemented is the CDI or capacitive discharge ignition, eliminating points and condensers. But other than that, I would go with one of those. To power this to the rear end, I say go with a chain drive of some sort, just fabricate one of your own. Well I don't know what else to say so good luck.
    FMX, I kinda agree but, I mostly disagree. The Briggs 5 HP with the pulsajet carb is very versetile, they are used in everything from the common generator to a racing go kart. Bore them out .30 over, shave the head, port the valves and put a comp cam in it and you could make over 10 HP, this setup is used on racing carts. Yes Lifan is a good engine company but, you have to figure that they are 2 strokes so, they have more power for the displacement but, no torque, on a heavyer vehicle such as the one Eboy wishes to construct, torque is needed to get it rolling. Also 5 hp Briggs are easy to find, and have you ever checked the price tag on a Lifan? Also being he wants to build a mini Hotrod, the whine of a 2 stroke would'nt sound right on a mini hotrod cause it would resemble the sound of a ricer, now you put a header on a 5 HP Briggs, it'll more so resemble an American V8 cause of the sheer rumble.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  12. #12
    eboy's Avatar
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    I agree with you Matt167, I'm looking for affordability right now. If I could afford that Lifan motor I could afford to put the Bird back on the street, and trust me that is my first priority.
    Wasted days and wasted nights............

  13. #13
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Oh by the way, the governer controll arm on those 5 HP briggs are right underneath the gastank, the ajustment screw is near there or, just disconnect the arm from the throttle linkage. If your uncertine on what the governer is, it is a mechanical rev limiter that works this way, when the engine RPM gets up to a certine point, the controll arm is triggered inside the crank case, the controll arm will back off the throttle on the carb so, by removing the governer there is no rev restrictions and the vehicle being operated can move faster but, this does not affect HP.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  14. #14
    eboy's Avatar
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    I'll send pics as we go, so you all can check out the progress.
    Wasted days and wasted nights............

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