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Thread: New to the site - Questions about my '31 Model A
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    Schramm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jerry,

    Thanks for the offer I am near Princeton IL 61356 are you in Barlett Illinois?

  2. #17
    Schramm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jerry,

    I see that you are in Bartlett, IL would you like to fix my car? Please say yes as I am out of trustable options. I have invested so much money in this beautiful car but at the end of the day it might as well be a painting on the wall!

  3. #18
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 nomad, 73 charger, 74 vega
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    Tech, have you any experience with anti-squeal spray?

    (Really, it's a product)

    Anyway, I've tried hi temp grease on the back of brakepads once, it would stop the squeak for the first three times, then it went back to squealing.

    Anyway, the anti-squeak spray is like a spray glue which doesn't quite set. It's a sticky mess. I always use it, but only on pads, not shoes.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  4. #19
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yes, I have used that and you're correct, it works well. Not sure why you had squealing with Wheel Bearing Grease, I never have.

    .
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  5. #20
    firebird77clone's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 nomad, 73 charger, 74 vega
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    It was a BMW. Maybe German cars are special.
    Whiplash23T likes this.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  6. #21
    Schramm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    PM me your exact address so I can google map to see where your at-----I could maybe come out to take a look and go over some of those items with you. Take a look at my gallery for some pics of stuff I've done (click the camera icon below my name)
    Jerry,

    Yes I would pay you to come out, you are 2 hours from me but if you come out with a trailer and know you can fix it you can take it with you. My town is Bureau IL if you want to come I'll give you my direct address. Please consider working on it. I am at a loss of who to take it to.

  7. #22
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'm studying the build pics -I would like to come out and see it, is it in a warm spot? and can it be lifted up?

  8. #23
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    Been studing the build pics of the frame and finding that it doesn't have any bracing or triangulation for torsional flex was baffling me-then I discovered the site of the frame builder and that explained it-He really is a builder of v8 chopper bikes-also of course with a single front wheel there aren't any steering geometry issues as in a four wheel vehicle ( caster, camber, toe in, bump steer)

  9. #24
    Schramm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jerry,

    The car is in a 12' x 32' garage and no I have no way to lift it. Mac builds hotrods and has for quite a while. I did a lot of reserch on him before hiring him. THere are so many guys out there with this chasis as he honestly builds rollers and just recently he started to build trikes. I am beside myself upset about this whole thing. If you want to call my house # I messaged you last night with it and maybe we start by talking on the phone. Let me know if you did not get it

    Rob

  10. #25
    sharpmark is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    mate - looked at your whole photo thread an your car would not be allowed on the road in New Zealand. at the very minimum - it needs a k- member for the centre x-member and they are adamant that it has to have that but prefer us to put a double k - i.e. braces running forwards and backwards of the centre cross-member and as mentioned the rear 4-bars are in single shear which would need grade-8 bolts min but once again double -shear ( the rod-ends inside two steel plates) is strongly recommended. I would suspect your chassis is flexing around a lot. the rear x-member doesn't look that strong either!
    its a seriously cool looking little hotrod but I suspect you've got a lemon that will take a lot more money to sort out.
    sorry!
    mark
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  11. #26
    Kiwi37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpmark View Post
    mate - looked at your whole photo thread an your car would not be allowed on the road in New Zealand. at the very minimum - it needs a k- member for the centre x-member and they are adamant that it has to have that but prefer us to put a double k - i.e. braces running forwards and backwards of the centre cross-member and as mentioned the rear 4-bars are in single shear which would need grade-8 bolts min but once again double -shear ( the rod-ends inside two steel plates) is strongly recommended. I would suspect your chassis is flexing around a lot. the rear x-member doesn't look that strong either!
    its a seriously cool looking little hotrod but I suspect you've got a lemon that will take a lot more money to sort out.
    sorry!
    What he said!
    Also:
    Your rear 4-bars look a tad short as does the panhard rod (If you want good handling.
    I didn't notice an emergency (hand) brake.
    The frame looks too flimsy and lacking X members so I suspect a lot of flaxing.

    But yeah, a cool car and good proportions!
    '55 F100 hot-rod (owned 40 years)
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpmark View Post
    mate - looked at your whole photo thread an your car would not be allowed on the road in New Zealand. at the very minimum - it needs a k- member for the centre x-member and they are adamant that it has to have that but prefer us to put a double k - i.e. braces running forwards and backwards of the centre cross-member and as mentioned the rear 4-bars are in single shear which would need grade-8 bolts min but once again double -shear ( the rod-ends inside two steel plates) is strongly recommended. I would suspect your chassis is flexing around a lot. the rear x-member doesn't look that strong either!
    its a seriously cool looking little hotrod but I suspect you've got a lemon that will take a lot more money to sort out.
    sorry!
    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi37 View Post
    What he said!
    Also:
    Your rear 4-bars look a tad short as does the panhard rod (If you want good handling.
    I didn't notice an emergency (hand) brake.
    The frame looks too flimsy and lacking X members so I suspect a lot of flaxing.

    But yeah, a cool car and good proportions!
    I had not taken time to look through your photos on FaceBook, but after reading Mark's post I was curious. I'd say that Mark nailed it, to fix your problems you're going to be pulling the body off and doing some major re-construction work on your chassis. There's nothing that cannot be fixed, but it's always a bit more difficult to fix someone else's mistakes than it is to do it right from the start. The car has a great stance, and like Kiwi37 says the proportions are nice, but it's like a fancy new beach house built without pilings. Since a person's got to be a FB user to see your photos, here's one of the chassis so that everyone can see what Mark & Kiwi were pointing out:

    bad frame.jpg

    Sorry for your problems. It sounds like you've already been through the wringer picking shops to build your car, but IMO you're not anywhere nearly done yet.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  13. #28
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
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    While the commentary on the questionable frame center reinforcement is spot on it's likely your "death wobble" is caused by loose steering/front suspension components. For example, if the steering box is just a little loose on it's mounts you'll get what you described. Also, if the king pins are loose in their bushings. Things along those lines, meaning ALL of the steering components. If you don't have the knowledge to examine and remediate you'll need to find reliable, experienced help. As for the throttle issues, those are Rochester 2GC carbs, very common for tri power, even were what GM used in the '50s-60s. My guess would be that the linkage is set up wrong and is binding then going a bit over center to lock when you go full throttle. The quick "fix" would be to disconnect the linkage to the two outboard carbs and see if that solves the problem. If not then it's probably the linkage from the pedal to the center carb (if it's installed anywhere close to correctly).

    Sadly, your experience with "professional" builders is not uncommon..............not much comfort to know you're not alone though.
    Last edited by Bob Parmenter; 01-06-2016 at 07:37 AM.
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  14. #29
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    Rob------I'm pretty tied up for at least the next couple of weeks-maybe around the first of Feb I can make a jaunt out there. Hopefully you won't get more depeased with comments on here as it is sad to see such an outstanding looking car be built on a styroform plastic frame package.

    I've been studying all the pics and at this point thinking different frame stragy from firewall back and also some changes to steering - cross link, better angle between king pins/ground contact patch, ( are your tires radial both front and rear?) correct steering geometry and adjustment settings, shock/spring settings, etc Looking forward to seeing it and meeting you---

    Jerry

  15. #30
    rspears's Avatar
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    Rob,
    As usual Uncle Bob pulled us back to the right focus. I'm not saying that your frame is causing your death wobble, but there are some safety and stability issues there that I would recommend you address.

    For a steering linkage that's not cross steer the first place I'd look for the death wobble solution is a loose panhard bar (which some call a track bar) mount, or improperly fitted/too soft bushings on that bar. Like Bob says though, it's the additive effect of tolerances that can cause the wobble, too, and it can be a bear to solve some times.

    Best of luck tracking down the solutions to your problems.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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