Thread: New to the site - Questions about my '31 Model A

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OK,
Issue 1. Identify the carbs, 97's or 48's? Identify the linkage, all 3 in at once or progressive, "running on the middle carb and then tipping in the two end carbs for speed"? Have the two end carbs been gutted or do they still have all their components? Do all three carbs still have their choke plates? Need detailed photos. Primary carb may need new accelerator pump plunger, or all three may need new plunger, depending on how the linkage is engineered. One of the things you may not know is that these little 2-barrels will not tolerate over 2 1/2 lbs of fuel pressure, so you may want to hook up a pressure gauge right at the center carb inlet so that you can read it going down the road. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, BRING A LIVE FUEL LINE OR GAUGE INTO THE CAB OF THE VEHICLE. I would suggest mounting a mechanical 0-5 psi gauge on the cowl in front of the windshield, so that it can be read through the windshield while driving down the road. You can use tie-wraps and/or duct tape to mount the gauge temporarily.
Kodiak Controls KC25 5 Low Pressure Gauge 5 PSI | eBay

Issue 2. Remove the brake pads and smear wheel bearing grease all across the entire rear of the pads, reassemble without getting any grease on the pad friction material. The grease does not have to be thick, just use your fingers and smear it around. The grease will cancel the harmonics that are generated as the pads vibrate and jump around in their mounts and make music on the end of the piston. Use lacquer thinner to clean the pad friction material and the rotor on both sides while you have it apart. Wheel bearing grease is designed to tolerate heat without running. You can actually hold a lighter up to it and see it char, but it will not run, so you have no worries about it running onto the rotor and getting the brake components greasy and unable to perform. Don't try to get techy with the grease, just use plain, old cheapo wheel bearing grease.

Issue 3. Need clear photos of every part of the steering system, some shots that show the whole system, then closer, then each individual part and the intersections of parts. Suspect you will need a Panhard Bar and/or damper as suggested above by Matthyj, but will have to see your system. You may also need to add some positive caster to the axle, up to maybe 7-8 degrees and run a little more toe-in. Are those radials or bias-ply tires on the front?

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