Thread: New to the site - Questions about my '31 Model A

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Hoping I can get some help with a few issues. First this is my freshly restored 31 model a. I had it done last year by a shop that I had to fire, then hire another company to finish (cannot explain the nightmare that was on top of the cost).
Lets start with the goods, everything runs perfect however I nearly have to slam the gas pedal to get it to pick up speed and when I do to damn thing sticks. That is issue one. Issue 2 has to do with the brakes, instead of installing the Wilwood brakes system he used Speedways brake system and the front right squeaks. Issue 3 damn thing drives nice up til about 60 mph and then has a death wobble until about 67 mph. It also happens if I hit a bump while driving (first time it happened thought I was going to crap). All in all they built me a nice car, if you want to see the entire make over on the car from the day I bought it until the day I brought it home check out its facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/Transformin...22830/?fref=ts

Can you get us a photo of the steering side, I am wondering about a bump steer problem but can't tell as of yet without a photo. Also is there a steering damper installed (guessing no), like the one Pete & Jakes sells, which I findly found out what it originally came on....A VW super beetle!! I rebuilt a super beetle and found that damper on the suspension and then saw a duplicate on a dropped axle at a NSRA show and asked the guy if he knew where it came from and he told me P&J and I told him its a beetle part originally and he wasn't real thrilled to have it on his American rod!!

OK,
Issue 1. Identify the carbs, 97's or 48's? Identify the linkage, all 3 in at once or progressive, "running on the middle carb and then tipping in the two end carbs for speed"? Have the two end carbs been gutted or do they still have all their components? Do all three carbs still have their choke plates? Need detailed photos. Primary carb may need new accelerator pump plunger, or all three may need new plunger, depending on how the linkage is engineered. One of the things you may not know is that these little 2-barrels will not tolerate over 2 1/2 lbs of fuel pressure, so you may want to hook up a pressure gauge right at the center carb inlet so that you can read it going down the road. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, BRING A LIVE FUEL LINE OR GAUGE INTO THE CAB OF THE VEHICLE. I would suggest mounting a mechanical 0-5 psi gauge on the cowl in front of the windshield, so that it can be read through the windshield while driving down the road. You can use tie-wraps and/or duct tape to mount the gauge temporarily.
Kodiak Controls KC25 5 Low Pressure Gauge 5 PSI | eBay

Issue 2. Remove the brake pads and smear wheel bearing grease all across the entire rear of the pads, reassemble without getting any grease on the pad friction material. The grease does not have to be thick, just use your fingers and smear it around. The grease will cancel the harmonics that are generated as the pads vibrate and jump around in their mounts and make music on the end of the piston. Use lacquer thinner to clean the pad friction material and the rotor on both sides while you have it apart. Wheel bearing grease is designed to tolerate heat without running. You can actually hold a lighter up to it and see it char, but it will not run, so you have no worries about it running onto the rotor and getting the brake components greasy and unable to perform. Don't try to get techy with the grease, just use plain, old cheapo wheel bearing grease.

Issue 3. Need clear photos of every part of the steering system, some shots that show the whole system, then closer, then each individual part and the intersections of parts. Suspect you will need a Panhard Bar and/or damper as suggested above by Matthyj, but will have to see your system. You may also need to add some positive caster to the axle, up to maybe 7-8 degrees and run a little more toe-in. Are those radials or bias-ply tires on the front?

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https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...45035324_o.jpg

Wheel offset WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY outside of desired amount-line from king pin centerline should intersect ground at middle of tire patch contact pattern on ground. And probably castor angle out of wack also.


https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...33&oe=5719F0D9
https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...38&oe=57101197


Looks like very short panhard bar and not level and no cross bar at the front end

If you are specific on what you would like photos of I will take direct pics of those areas. Here is what I have which may help you see the steering

As far as the carbs, they came from Charlie Price, center carb is the main carb and the others open (very tightly) when additional fuel is needed.

Tell me what you want to see and also what info you need I have all parts reciepts

I'd like to have the guy who designed that Panhard Bar by the throat......

Remove the lock nuts and short studs from the steering linkage, drill through the D-shaft and insert Grade 8 (6 hash marks on the bolt head) through-bolts with Ny-Loc locking nuts. #10 bolts (0.190" diameter) will be enough. This is just to keep the whole mess together in the event of an accident or component malfunction.

Re: carbs. What does "open very tightly" mean? Are the throttle shafts too tight in their bore or is there something else binding?

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https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...0c95&oe=571B6F

Carb linkage
https://scontent-mia1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...80&oe=5716D37C


A lot of very detailed innovative work nicely done-------too bad total disregard for basic safety in that all the suspension and steering are mucked. Nice design work on the total package----

Now that Jerry has provided a better photo, I see that the carbs are Rochesters. Max fuel pressure 5 psi. My eyes still are not good enough to see the details of the linkage. The fuel log should have a threaded outlet on the back side (toward the distributor) where you could tap in to monitor the fuel pressure. I see there is a pressure adjustment valve between the fuel block and the pump, so adjustments will be easy.

Agree with Jerry, very nicely engineered package for the most part, but someone failed to carry through on the details.

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Jerry, cannot get the first link on your post #7 to come up. Is there more to it?

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Upper rear shock mount bolts will bend or break on the first good hit, they're mounted in single shear. Poor engineering.

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https://www.facebook.com/Transformin...30/?fref=photo

try this link for several pics

Are you saying that the car is not safe? When driving it and hitting a bump it feels very unsafe.

When I throttle the pedal the first 1/2" is loose the the gas pedal in any car, however when I go to accelerate the gas pedal is harder to push down and sticks open many times where I have to kick it down

I wanted an electronic choke as well but was told by the first builder it's a nightmare and I didn't want it

To be really honest, I spared no expense on this build and feel with all the work done I have a nice $70k build but unfortunately I have $96k in it. I had to fire the original builder and hire 5 different to figure out and get this car done. The final result is a stunning piece of mechanical art when looking at it but a nightmare when driving. Not quite the experience I expected for working 360 last year to pay for it.

I live in central Illinois about 45 minutes east of Davenport is in Bureau il. I would love someone to fix all the issues. I hate the idea of paying more but love the idea of driving this like I thought I'd be able too.

I bought the complete setup from Vintage Speed (Charlie Price), here is a pic of what I bought showing the linkage

PM me your exact address so I can google map to see where your at-----I could maybe come out to take a look and go over some of those items with you. Take a look at my gallery for some pics of stuff I've done (click the camera icon below my name)

You have no idea how badly I feel for you and I don't even know where to send you for help. If I were in your shoes, I'd be KILL-MAD.

OOPS, just saw Jerry's post offering help....

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