Thread: Headers for 69 chevelle?
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03-22-2016 12:46 PM #16
#5 mod complete.Last edited by firebird77clone; 03-22-2016 at 05:24 PM.
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Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-22-2016 01:08 PM #17
You mentioned that you hoped to solve a problem of blowing out exhaust gaskets with your modification. I'd say that there's little chance of that problem being solved, looking at those flanges. Quality headers have 3/8" thick flanges to eliminate warping with heat and pressure, and cheaper headers have 5/16" or even 1/4" thick. Yours look to be more like 1/8" to 3/16" but it may be the camera angle fooling the eye.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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03-22-2016 01:18 PM #18
#3 mod completeLast edited by firebird77clone; 03-22-2016 at 05:24 PM.
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Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-22-2016 01:20 PM #19
'Tis the camera angle. They're 1/4".
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-22-2016 02:03 PM #20
FAIL.
You are a no- go at this station.
Report to your first- line supervisor for additional training.
#3 down tube is still too close to #5 plug.
Pulling it back off..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-22-2016 02:09 PM #21
Good to see that you took on the challenge and got the outcome you were looking for; that's what this game is all about. I hope the flange problem does not recur, though, 1/4" flanges are pretty chancy, like Roger says; the first headers I had on my '59 had 1/4" flanges, and I was always fighting leaks. Put a set on with 3/8", and heavier tubes, and no more fussing around with them..
.Rrumbler, Aka: Hey you, "Old School", Hairy, and other unsavory monickers.
Twistin' and bangin' on stuff for about sixty or so years; beat up and busted, but not entirely dead - yet.
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03-22-2016 02:26 PM #22
http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/...psdnyywuxr.jpg
would these work?
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03-22-2016 05:23 PM #23
Possibly.
I'll have it licked soon as I rework tube #3..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-23-2016 10:07 AM #24
#3 completed again.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-23-2016 11:11 AM #25
Success. I would like to have brought #5 out another quarter inch, but it is good.
I'm also going to make booties for the wires using the heat wrap. That will give them an extra layer of heat protection..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-23-2016 01:13 PM #26
do you run the plug wires over or under the headers?
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03-23-2016 01:21 PM #27
More success!
Swapping the edelbrock 2601 air gap to the edelbrock 7101 performer got rid of my cold - start and mid - throttle issues. I might even try swapping the 600 edelbrock back to the 750 and see how it does.
This whole time it's been running the wrong plugs. It had the short - nosed plugs, needs the long - nosed.
I also found the dizzy cap contaminated with oil, probably from the rear breather cap. Since I have the PCV on that side, I plugged that breather. Cleaned the cap with contact cleaner and compressed air. New wires - #5&6 were fried.
Altogether, it's never run this smooth.
Kind of supports the old adage:
If you want it done right, do it yourself..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-23-2016 01:23 PM #28
Jerry - both over and under, whichever provides the best protection to each wire..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
How much did Santa have to pay for his sleigh? Nothing! It's on the house! .
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