Thread: 301 gets a new home

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I'm retiring the Vega's 140, going to swap in a fully built poncho 301 with turbo trans.

That is, it was fully rebuilt ten years ago, and got shelved with the turbo 350 after maybe three thousand miles.

It's just a fun little project, no budget- I'll buy whatever I'll need to do the job.

I've managed to brow beat myself into lubing the cam, at least. I really don't want to pull the heads to check the bores for rust, but maybe I should.

It has been stored under an awning, exhaust ports and carb covered with foil tape, and plugs in. I remember some years back, I pulled the plugs and sprayed WD-40 (I think) into the cylinders, and giving it a spin, then put the plugs back in. Every now and again I'll give the front pulley a nudge, just to be sure it hasn't locked up.

All advice is welcome, but this IS the motor that is going in.

Oh, a couple questions I do have:

Can I block off the fuel pump and run off the electric pump in the tank? Will I have to cut the trans tunnel or firewall, will the driveshaft yoke fit the BOP TH350?
Thanks.

The fuel pump question should be answered with a gauge attached to the fuel line. Does it have the gph? I'd "assume" it would, at least around town.
Firewall?? Trans tunnel?? I haven't a clue.

Personally, I'd at least pull the plugs, squirt in some oil and turn it over a time or two.... even prime it first... but I'd be worried at least in the beginning..

I've got the use of a lighted bore scope, so I'll start there. If the cylinders are rusty, then it'll have to be honed.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

I've got the use of a lighted bore scope, so I'll start there. If the cylinders are rusty, then it'll have to be honed.

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A special thanks to Ron, Hamilton Collision for the use of his Snapon digital scope- the bores look great, some still have crosshatching even.

After I scoped it, I shot about an ounce of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder, spun it a couple times, left it on 10* compression stroke #1, and put the plugs back in. Then I did a repair on the transmission dipstick tube bracket, and removed the power steering pump which won't be needed.

On your fuel pump question, if you're concerned with taking the mechanical pump off all you need to do is remove the pump and pushrod, and use a gasketed cover plate to blank off the opening. Then like Mike says, it's a matter of regulating down the pressure of your in tank electric pump to match the needs of the carb you're running, provided the flow volume is sufficient for the V8 vs the original 4.

OH! and my memory says there is a switch under the dash, if it doesn't see oil pressure it'll shut down the ignition circuit....

If I remember correctly the vega's were carbuerated (pre-fuel injection), their pumps were 5psi and most of the time supplied mild sbc just fine. I have heard that the thunderbird in tank fuel pump used on the 5.0 v8's from the early eighties fit into the vega tanks and worked better for high performance.

Originally Posted by 34_40

OH! and my memory says there is a switch under the dash, if it doesn't see oil pressure it'll shut down the ignition circuit....

Seems to me that there was an interlock that required oil pressure before the fuel pump stayed running, and it may have been in addition to an ignition circuit interlock too. It's been a long time ago, and I could be mixed up.

Typical fuel pump safety switch circuit
fuel pump.jpg

I was thinking about the interlock on the fuel pump.
I could plumb in the Vega's oil sensor, or jump it out.
The pressure is pretty low, no need to regulate it.

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The aluminum radiator I got for the project (last July) doesn't have a cooler, and the trans lines are butchered, so that's two more things to consider.

Any suggestions?

I'm dinking with the chevelle right now, but I'd like to start this Tuesday.

I'll be making my own lines, I have some steel tubing and a trans cooler on its way. I was going to mount the cooler to the radiator. Would it be better to the inside, or outside of the radiator?