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  • 1 Post By rspears
  • 1 Post By HOSS429

Thread: Any Ford Y-block Experts Here?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Al G is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Any Ford Y-block Experts Here?

     



    I bought a 1957 Thunderbird at an auction last weekend. Seems to be in good condition given the limited inspection I was able to do. Now that it's home there is one potential area of concern. I'm getting some grayish white exhaust smoke that wasn't present at the auction. Looks the same from both sides. There's a little wisp at idle, big puff when I step on the gas and seems to go away at a constant 1500 or so rpm. I don't have it titled yet so can't take it for a drive. I'm wondering if it wasn't present at the auction because it was warmed up? Oil looks good so I don't think it's antifreeze. Maybe worn valve guide seals?

    A couple more general questions. What's a good modern oil to use? The manual calls for 20 or 20W. I'm guessing I need ZDDP in the oil or an additive.

    What grade of gas should I use?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
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    Al, if it were mine I'd fill it with Brad Penn's oil, which has the old levels of ZDDP in it. I would shy away from ZDDP additives, because getting too much zinc in the oil can cause problems equal to or worse than having too little. As for the puffs of smoke? I'd drive it and enjoy it!
    NTFDAY likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    HOSS429's Avatar
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    if it has an automatic trans with a modulator i`d check for that being blown allowing it to suck fluid into the engine .. you can sometimes tell what smoke is by its smell .. get a whiff of it .. if it is fluid it will smell like it even when burned .. if it is coolant it will smell a bit sweet ..
    NTFDAY likes this.
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  4. #4
    Al G is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    It has an automatic so I'll give that a check. I tried smelling the exhaust and couldn't detect anything.

  5. #5
    HOSS429's Avatar
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    i forgot to mention if it`s Quaker State oil it just plain stinks ... HA !! anyone remember how bad Quaker state oil used to gum up engines .. i believe it was once paraffin based ..at least that`s what we blamed gummy engines on 40 years ago ...
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  6. #6
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    1957 T bird
    312 with single four barrel
    312 with dual quads 270 hp
    312 with supercharger 300 hp

    camshaft preferred all y blocks----made by Isky, B7A-6250-D

    1957 distributors had vacume and mechanical advance

  7. #7
    Al G is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Mine is the 312 with single four barrel.

    Did some internet research and determined this transmission doesn't have a vacuum modulator so it shouldn't be burning trans fluid.

  8. #8
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    White smoke would usually indicate a water (Coolant) leak.
    I'd suspect head gaskets are rotting away.
    But that's a 1000 mile guess.

    Pull the plugs and see what they say.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post

    Pull the plugs and see what they say.
    yes .. a good suggestion .. a shiny steam cleaned new plug will tell you which hole is wet .
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  10. #10
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HOSS429 View Post
    yes .. a good suggestion .. a shiny steam cleaned new plug will tell you which hole is wet .
    Yeah, I didn't pick up on the "grayish white" maybe being coolant, and Mike could be right with eroding head gaskets, especially if it sat for some time before going to auction. Reading plugs is always a good place to start.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  11. #11
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    IFFFFFFFFF--it hasn't been run a lot lately-it could just be from condensation formed in the exhaust system over numerous short running periods-like starting backing out of garage. Starting and loading on and off trailer, etc,etc---------it may all dry out and go away with a little running-
    but do keep a look out at the oil condition on dipstick and possibly remove valve cover to see if moisture cooletting inside on the alum.

    You also might want to loosen rad cap to see if getting any bubbles or pressure build up

    also there is a bottle of liquid stuff and an tool that you can vent rad thru that will chahge color if exhaust is present.
    as for oil--this engine has mushroom tappets and being larger diameter than most lifters, the oil used isn't as big a problem as on other engines plus the upper engine was fed separatedly from cam bearing location 2 and 4 and drain back worked------

  12. #12
    Al G is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'll pull the plugs as soon as we get a break In the heat and I can stand to spend time in the garage.

    It hasn't been run a lot so maybe Jerry is on to something. That would also make sense considering I'm seeing the same thing from both exhausts.

    The oil on the dipstick looks good. Coolant also looks good. I'll try checking for bubbles.

    I'm still baffled as to why no smoke was present at the auction. I had the seller start the car when I was looking at it. No smoke then. Also no smoke when it drove onto the auction block.

    Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep you posted.

  13. #13
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    its not smoke-its steam

  14. #14
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    Check the master cyl. fluid level that year ford used a midland ross power brake booster when they go bad brahe fluid is sucked into the intake and burned let me know I have an n.o.s. unit in the garage I never use
    I'LL KEEP MY PROPERTY, MY MONEY, MY FREEDOM, AND MY GUNS, AND YOU CAN KEEP THE CHANGE------ THE PROBLEM WITH LIBERALISM IS SOONER OR LATER YOU RUN OUT OF OTHER PEOPLES MONEY margaret thacher 1984

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