Thread: Por-15 Review

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Roger it's been on the frame for over 7 years, it ain't coming off. Still stand by it

Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

So what is a better product to use in a situation where the body isn't coming off the frame and sand blasting isn't an option? The owner of this truck didn't want to spend the money and time to do all that. The POR-15 was the way he wanted to go. Or even for a sprucing up of an old truck frame? My eyes and ears are open.

Ryan, it sounds to me like you might consider a rust converter, which chemically changes iron oxide to iron tannate. I would think that you could pressure wash the areas to be treated, let it dry and then apply the rust converter. Google "rust converter" and see what you think. Here's one that looks like you might be able to spray on, but I'd check the FAQ's first - https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...AQs-W48C2.aspx Follow with your paint of choice, maybe like Rustoleum's industrial line since you're not looking for show quality.

rust is better left exposed rather than cover it up with an encapsulater. just leave it be and it will not get any worse. when it is covered with dirt or mud it grows. ever wonder why cars rust in the bottom of the doors or floorboards? because it is covered by dirt. when the por or other such crap falls off usually nothing is left. paint it with a rattle can it will live longer .

I've found rustoleum to be problematic in appplications other than a single coat. It tends to blister and wrinkle if additional coats are applied.

For rattle can applications, I use Krylon.

Originally Posted by shine

rust is better left exposed rather than cover it up with an encapsulater. just leave it be and it will not get any worse. when it is covered with dirt or mud it grows. ever wonder why cars rust in the bottom of the doors or floorboards? because it is covered by dirt. when the por or other such crap falls off usually nothing is left. paint it with a rattle can it will live longer .

Believe me, I should have just rattle canned the dang thing. It would be done by now! Maybe in Texas you can get away with leaving the rust, but that won't work too well here with the crap they put on our roads.

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

I've found rustoleum to be problematic in appplications other than a single coat. It tends to blister and wrinkle if additional coats are applied.

For rattle can applications, I use Krylon.

I've had horrid luck with Krylon products not wanting to dry so I quit using them.

Originally Posted by rspears

Ryan, it sounds to me like you might consider a rust converter, which chemically changes iron oxide to iron tannate. I would think that you could pressure wash the areas to be treated, let it dry and then apply the rust converter. Google "rust converter" and see what you think. Here's one that looks like you might be able to spray on, but I'd check the FAQ's first - https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Co...AQs-W48C2.aspx Follow with your paint of choice, maybe like Rustoleum's industrial line since you're not looking for show quality.

I'll definitely look into this. Hopefully I won't take on any more of this type of stuff for others.

Originally Posted by stovens

Roger it's been on the frame for over 7 years, it ain't coming off. Still stand by it

How many of those 7 years have been driving with rocks hitting it etc? Another thing to keep in mind, I bet your 7 year ago made POR is not of the same quality as today's. Here is a pic of part of the frame that peeled. Other areas around that spot are glued on. Then you have more peeling next to it. I found these awesome spots while scuffing the por to top coat it. Luckily for me, from the leaf spring hangers back I used acid etch primer, then applied the por. All that stuck fine. I scuffed all that with 80 grit and then applied raptor liner. It should be good to go now. From the front shackles forward the customer wanted smooth and shiny. I should have messed up and just applied raptor liner to it too. It would have been done last week! Keep in mind this is on a 550hp diesel mall crawler. (If it matters) Haha

I have stripped the peeling por with paint stripper and wire wheels. Hopefully in the morning I can mask it all off and get it shot. Then it will be time to paint trans, tcase, and then assemble the engine.

I've tried replying a few times but the site seems to go dead!
So one last attempt! We used to apply (brush on) phosphoric acid ( I believe it was) and let it dry, then wipe it down with clean rags / towels and then spray on paint. I think it does what you're asking, oxidizes the rust so you can topcoat over it.

If it matters to anyone, Rustoleum's Industrial product doesn't come in rattle cans. It's only in bulk containers, and it has a specific primer that goes with that line. It can be sprayed, but in a traditional spray gun with enough orifice to flow the paint. I used it on about 200' of custom deck railing, and after five years it looks like the day it was sprayed. Rattle cans are for hobbys.

Originally Posted by rspears

I believe that POR15 is a close relative to powder coating, where the "sheeting" effect is great if it bonds as expected/advertised, but is a curse if it simply forms a sheet that's floating free of the surface, and heaven help you if moisture gets underneath that floating sheet, because it will hide the rust monster until the sheet breaks free. Not a fan.

I'm with roger on this, it's not something I would use again as I used it exactly as instructions and found it lifting after 6 months, luckily it was only a test piece and not a complete frame

I figured I'd post pics of the project after I shot some single stage on it. No more por.

As Stovens said the more rust the better, if those spots that you noticed the por peeling from didn't have any kind of surface rust i would imagine it probably didn't have anything to adhere to. It's really not meant to be used as an undercoating per say, but rather as rust inhibitor for particularly bad places. We use it on the under side of hoods and floors for the most part. Works excellent on a frame too but sand blasted and epoxy prime is best for that.