Thread: 65 327 issue

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1965 327 ran fine for 20 years; started it a month ago; ran like crap. Changed: electronic ignition, rotor, cap, plugs, coil, fuel filter, fuel sock in tank. Checked: timing, ballast resistor, fuel pressure, primary and secondary fuel flow. Still runs like crap. I am confused!!! Help appreciated.

If it sat for any length of time there's a good possibilty that you'll be rebuilding the carb. Did you blow out the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump?

Have you completed a compression check?

What's the vacuum reading at idle? Is it steady or bouncing?

Bad fuel maybe

Going along with Ken's post, if it sat idle for any length of time it's likely that all of the rubber components in the tank, at the fuel pump, and even in the carb have started to fall apart. This situation is brought to you by the American Coalition for Ethanol and the Renewable Fuels Association, along with the EPA.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

If it sat for any length of time there's a good possibilty that you'll be rebuilding the carb. Did you blow out the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump?

doesn't sit much at all in the summer. Drove it two weeks before "event" occurred.

Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by 34_40

Have you completed a compression check?

What's the vacuum reading at idle? Is it steady or bouncing?

Checking compression this afternoon. Vacumm seems steady and normal.

Thanks for the input.

Ethanol is creating fuel problems in vehicles that don't see much road time and when everything is said and done I'll be quite surprised if that is not part or all of your problem.

Compression test shows 95 to 110 in all 8 cylinders; not very good for a 10.5 piston motor.

Since they were all within 10% of each other, the problem would not seem to be piston/ring failure.

That lead to the carb; there is a problem with lack of sufficient air flow. Carb and intake coming off next.

Vacuum steady so no issue there.

thanks again.

Just a wild guess as I had the same problem with a 327. Are the plug wires on the right plugs?

Checked that early on; been there myself!!

Engine not getting enough air; fuel mixture screws don't seem to have any effect on one side.

Carb is off; haven't opened it yet; waiting for rebuild kit.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by corv65

......fuel mixture screws don't seem to have any effect on one side.

I'd say that a carb kit is going to be the answer, provided you clean it out totally. Back in the day I boiled out several carbs, after an old crusty mechanic explained it to me.

One word says it all: ETHANOL

My vote is ethanol, try 6 weeks is all your gas will be good if you are using a carb, all the while its eating the rubber like Roger said. The reason you efi car can go longer is the engine is adjusting the mixture sensed by the O2 sensor compensating for our crappy fuel we buy. If your buying from a station with above ground tanks 6 weeks is a over estimate as the heat breaks it down even quicker, I talked with a expert on this, he is a car collector and owned a oil company, makes a product to use on ethanol fuel in older cars and still said "Buy ethanol free" here you go, after the carb rebuild Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

Originally Posted by corv65

Compression test shows 95 to 110 in all 8 cylinders; not very good for a 10.5 piston motor.

Using a hot rod cam that closes the intake valve very late in the cycle will contribute to low cylinder pressures. Please read this tutorial that I wrote several years ago.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

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