Thread: Exhaust System Questions
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12-01-2016 06:52 AM #16
I have been looking at the exhaust pipe I can buy. Does anyone know the difference between the Speedway pipe which is "Mild Steel" non-aluminized and the Jegs pipe which is called off as aluminized? Both are 16 gauge.
Basically I need to know what "aluminized" means. When I am all done my goal is to paint my exhaust system with a high temp paint.It is easy to make a small fortune in Hot Rods. Just start with a large one.......
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12-01-2016 07:05 AM #17
Most of the commentary here has been useful for you, and your research is okay, but as Mike said, computer recreations don't always transfer to the real world. After years of playing with this stuff I've come to the conclusion that no matter what you think it will sound like when you're done, you'll maybe be close, but just about never right on (unless you're duplicating all conditions from a previous build).
A couple examples for reference (short versions of stories I've told before).
I picked up a '40 Ford coupe a number of years back. Had a built flathead, and a completely bare interior. Came with some old, short glass packs that were past their prime. Sounded awful, not loud, not tinny, just crappy. The long term plan was to do the exhaust last and fine tune for the desired sound. After putting in a well insulated interior the sound on the OUTSIDE of the car completely changed..............it was mellow, throaty, and just right to my ear (no change at all to the exhaust system). My belief is that the resonance off the floor pan was so dampened by the insulation and carpet that it removed the objectionable sound waves.
In a '64 Savoy SS clone I did I had a mildly pumped 440. I put a pair of Flowmaster 40s on it. Now usually those will be loudish and have that tinny sound others here have noted. When we put an H pipe in all that went away, no harshness of any kind. To this day, despite a boat load of cars owned, I still remember that as the sweetest sounding car I've ever done. BTW, that one was 2 1/2", but that was more for the engine breathing than sound.
Don't be surprised if when you're "done". you're not. If you're obsessive about the sound you may have to do some changes to dial it in. Sounds like you're not afraid of research and learning. If anyone, me included, tells you that X brand is the best sounding equipment keep in mind that is insufficient info. Environment/design have a hand in it too.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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12-01-2016 07:35 AM #18
Aluminized steel pipe has been hot-dip coated on both sides with aluminium-silicon alloy. It makes it more rust resistant. I used it for my exhaust pipes. I roughed up the surfaces of my pipes and mufflers with scotchbrite and painted it all with Eastwood exhaust paint. It has held up rather well over the years.Last edited by rumrumm; 12-01-2016 at 07:41 AM.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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12-01-2016 07:36 AM #19
After years of different approaches----------I believe the best way to have the sound you want is to put on a set up that is VERY quiet and then a high ampereage sterio system with 2 big speakers under the rear ( maybe floor of trunk) and a volume control that is hooked/programmed to your throttle pedal/rpm tach and just play a recording of the sound you want-------that way you can also change the sound easily------
I know one guy who has spent well over $7000 on exhaust systems for his 2002 Camaro SS--------
Aluminized steel tubing is coated so it won't rust out so bad but is still weldable----------stay aware that ordering tubing to be shipped can be high dollar because of the length of package .
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12-01-2016 09:57 AM #20
And note that the aluminized coating must be ground away in the areas you intend to weld on.
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12-01-2016 10:55 AM #21
OK that all makes sense and I appreciate all of the input from everyone. I understand how everything little thing can affect the final sound. I guess I am OK with this since I don't really have any other choice. I am also confident that when I finally get this project completed I will be happy. To be honest everything I have been listening too sounds good. Besides if it is that bad in the end it can always be changed. One never really 100% finishes a Hot Rod do they? There always something to do or make better.........
.It is easy to make a small fortune in Hot Rods. Just start with a large one.......
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12-01-2016 03:10 PM #22
Here is where I got my Pipe (you might look to see how it compares on Price)-
https://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/images/Bends.JPGHave you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?
-George Carlin
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12-01-2016 03:34 PM #23
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12-01-2016 08:31 PM #24
Dynamax ultafo. Not flow disaster kill your power
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12-07-2016 12:27 PM #25
Excuse me, but your point is . . . ?
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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12-08-2016 10:19 PM #26
The first incarnation of my '59 Chevy pickup, I put a 350 out of a wrecked '67 Camaro in it; had long tube headers into 2-1/2" tubing, turbo mufflers (don't remember the brand, but got them at So Cal Speed), and about 30" of tubing behind the muffs int turn downs right by the rear axle. It had a nice Rrumble, but no rap at all, and the only drone I got was at about 50 - 55 on the freeway - never noticed it on city streets - it was quite civil. That engine went away, to the point I could run it, but not trust it, and the truck got grounded for a while before I got around to getting another engine built for it, only being started and moved once in a while. Some years later, I got around to getting it re-done, needed it for getting to work; put a newly built 350 in it, and re-used the long tubes, but the turbo mufflers were rusted from not getting hot enough to dry out the accumulated condensation when it got started and moved from time to time, so I grabbed some no name brand 30" glass packs for it just to get it driveable; they were 2-1/2" in and out with a 2-1/4" core tube with louver type perforations, and short turn downs right out of the mufflers, still just a foot or so ahead of the rear axle. I got them in, and started it up - wow, what a difference. It had a deep throbbing Rrumble (mild cam in the engine), and when I got on it, it sounded great, nice deep growl going down the road at loud pedal, but really mild at cruise. The first time I took it to the local mall, I set off most of the car alarms in the parking lot. I was pretty pleased to get that result for so cheap. In general, though, the larger the tail pipe tubing, and the longer, the deeper the tone at the tip will be; smaller tubing will raise the note of the tone and introduce rap in a full length tail pipe. "H' and "X" pipes will smooth out the pulses and reduce perceived rumble, but may nor may not affect the tone. So, I guess the moral of my story is, you can't really tell what you're going to get until you open the box of chocolates.
.Rrumbler, Aka: Hey you, "Old School", Hairy, and other unsavory monickers.
Twistin' and bangin' on stuff for about sixty or so years; beat up and busted, but not entirely dead - yet.
How much did Santa have to pay for his sleigh? Nothing! It's on the house! .
the Official CHR joke page duel