Thread: Electric Rad Fan Controller

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Is there anything good and reliable out there, I had an Afco brand that didn't last too long so I replaced it with a on off to ground temp sensor in the intake below the thermostat with a relay and it goes on and off ok but it doesn't kick on quick enough and shuts off too quickly so if I idle too long it will start to run warm. Looking for a good adjustable one but wow is there a lot of different ones out there.

its been in there soo long, I don't remember. I would like an adjustable one so I don't have to buy another sensor and get it wrong again.

why not just put in a toggle switch and when the temps start to climb, hit the button.

The parts have been in a long time, just haven't been used much because it hasn't been on the road yet, the first controller that was adjustable did what it was supposed to but I had to put twisting pressure on the circuit board to get it to work.It was bad right out of the package. I didn't try to return it because it had been sitting on my shelf for over a year before I installed it. That's when I went to just a simple on/off sender. It has one spade coming out of it that grounds when it warms up and opens when it cools down, and I have that hooked to the ground wire on my relay. It seems like the problem is that it measures the block temp more than the rad.When the first batch of cold water comes to the block to cool it off after the thermostat opened, the fan stays off when it should be cooling the hot water that just came out of the engine to the radiator.Maybe I ordered one with 200 on 175 off, not sure but it isn't enough. If i to order another on off switch, what would be good temps to go with, 190 on 165 off ? Otherwise I was looking at adjustable ones with a probe in the rad.

Originally Posted by chopt50wgn

why not just put in a toggle switch and when the temps start to climb, hit the button.

I'm more of a I like things to work without me monitoring them, and its my wife's pickup so just a toggle switch would not be good.

What kind of motor are we discussing?
Does it have a coolant bypass system in place? The job of the bypass is to allow some coolant flow into the radiator so that the remaining coolant in the top of the block and heads doesn't go to steam, it also allows the thermostat to sense the coolant temperature.

An old rodders trick was to drill a small whole (less than 1/8") on the flange of the thermostat, this did 2 things, allowed air to pass into the radiator and allowed the thermostat to "see" the coolant temp faster.

Something to think about along with all the topics already in progress right??? ROFLMAO!

It's a 348, and I remember the 1/8 hole trick, that's been awile. It's all getting away from my original question but I game for it

I just found a 185/175 stamped in the sensor, doesn't seem like a big enough of a differential and the temps seem too high to me.

I used one of these for a long time and it worked pretty slick. Electronic Fan Control

Sorry, I should have followed up on this, I got it all fixed. The main problem was my own fault again. I had a loop hose on both return ports of my water pump and it must have circulating too much at the pump. I plumbed it correctly now and it will idle all day and stay cool and the heater hoses warm up nice. I actually ordered a warmer on off fan sensor because now the fan comes on too quick.

Yes, I buckle easy under pressure!