Thread: P6T Chevy van fuel pump
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03-27-2017 07:29 PM #31
See next post. My phone got dropped today: this post turned to gobbledygook.Last edited by firebird77clone; 03-27-2017 at 07:49 PM.
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Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-27-2017 07:46 PM #32
I heartily recommend Seldon auto electric of Columbus. He took one look at it, told me it's a high output ford with external regulator, "When do you want it?".
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-28-2017 05:12 AM #33
That's the way to go! Did he say pricing? I don't remember what I paid but I was unhappy.. I gave it to the customer at my cost 'cause it cost that much. And I didn't want to hear the whining! LOL..
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03-28-2017 06:28 AM #34
He didn't say. The stock alternator priced at $130 so hopefully it will be less than that. One of the parts stores tested it and it showed bad, but since they didn't know what it was, who knows if they tested it correctly. I do know it was noisy, so bad bearings at least..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-28-2017 08:28 PM #35
Still waiting on the starter, so I tightened up the bolts on the gas tank (it was just hanging loose until I was sure the electric pump and fuel sending unit was good), and I readjusted the hydraulic lift ramp. It really needs another link removed from the 50 series chain and a half link installed, but as I don't have a half link, I utilized the threaded adjustment rods to level up the gate.
Still gotta add antifreeze, but it's getting closer..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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03-29-2017 10:49 AM #36
Today I buttoned up the tail pan (it holds the rear lights and covers the hydraulics) and repaired the fold-out step on the front door. The step assembly was held in with carriage bolts. I managed to only destroy one. Old rusty carriage bolts are always such a chore. My favorite way to deal with them is to drill through the head (thus removing the head without damaging what it's going through, usually a bumper) and throw it away. But today, I applied heat and penetrating oil, and it wasn't too bad..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-03-2017 11:42 AM #37
Sticker shock!
The alternator rebuild cost $250.
It will be a good selling point though..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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04-04-2017 02:34 PM #38
I picked up the alternator.
It is a stock 220A unit, and he says it will push 260A now. I'll run it with the bridge open, off of one output terminal. That will half the power output so that it won't fry the battery..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
I tried rubber isolators between the frame and pump, but it made little difference. I don't mind spinning the motor over to refill the carb(s), it allows time to build oil pressure, jmho..
1968 Plymouth Valiant 1st Gen HEMI