Thread: Replacement Radiator Suggestions Needed

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I apologize in advance if this is not the correct forum to post this.
I'm looking for suggestions on a supplier for a replacement radiator
for my '37 Dodge. It has the original radiator in it and won't keep my
350 Chevy with Automatic Trans. cool enough. It is going to have to be
the same size as the Original because it goes way up in the nose of the
car and can only be about 18" wide. I would like to put in an Aluminum
Radiator but the custom ones seem way overpriced.

Welcome to the forum, Tom, and don't fret too much about getting things in the right place. Scroll through this thread from Mike P - Build thread 37 Dodge PU I know Mike talked about his radiator at some point. Most of the early pictures got captured by the PhotoBucket Pirates, but Mike will likely jump in with some specifics when the sun's up out in Arizona.

Also, mprevo is doing a '37 Plymouth, and he mentioned that his radiator just arrived, to fit the stock nose piece. See the last group of pictures he posted, and maybe PM him for details on what he bought? Link to his build thread - 1937 Plymouth 5 Window Coupe

I just received my radiator for my 1937 Plymouth. This is not a direct fit unit. I didn't want to pay the big $$$ for a direct fit unit. I opted for one that was close that I will make work. Mine also goes up into the nose cone. He is the link for the one I purchased for $227.00

Champion Cooling Systems CC3132: All-Aluminum Radiator 1932 Ford Highboy | JEGS

This unit is aluminum and has the advertised cooling capacity of 600 to 800 HP. Basically all I did to save money was I kept on looking at the different units available and and their physical size until I found one that would work for me.


Another option are the guys at Wizard Cooling. They will cost more but you may be able to find an "exact fit" unit.


Hope this helps.

https://wizardcooling.com/1937-plymo...inum-radiator/

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To get the best performance, add a 16 inch SPAL high flow electric fan and a shroud that covers everything but the fan opening. Just mounting a fan to the radiator is not as effective.

The suns not quite up yet, Roger knows me pretty well


Hi Tom, welcome to the forum. Mine is a 37 Dodge truck so the nose dimensions might not be the same. Like Roger said my old pictures are being held hostage by Photo bucket, but I still have the one with the original measurements so you can compare it to yours.

Z org rad by M Patterson, on Flickr


I agree that the custom aluminum radiators are on the pricy side so I ended up looking for alternatives too. I ended up using an aftermarket 65-66 V8 Mustang aluminum radiator. In my case the water outlets on the radiator were on the correct positions but it’s something you will want to consider when shopping for a radiator. I think the 6 cylinder mustang radiators are on opposite sides if it is an issue.

I will warn you up front this IS NOT a bolt in. There is a lot of trimming on the mounting flanges and some minor trimming on the bracing in the nose. I had to set the radiator in deeper than the factory radiator due to space issues. If you currently have a stock radiator in it and everything fits you might not have as much trimming to do.

That being said I would not even consider trying to fit this radiator into the nose with it on the car! I don’t know if removing the nose from your car is a show stopper or not.

Must Rad by M Patterson, on Flickr

After all the trimming and fitting I am very happy with the final fitment. Using the Mustang style radiator even let me use a metal reproduction Mustang fan shroud (with some minor trimming on the mounting flange).

I’m using a 2 row version of the radiator with two 1” tubes. Without getting in to a big discussion about it basically the 2 rows with the 1” tubes give more surface area for cooling than most of the 3 or 4 row aluminum radiators and my experience is they cool a bit better. The radiator has a built in transmission cooler which I would not be afraid to use with a TH350/TH400. I’m running a 46RH Torqueflight in mine which requires a bit more cooling and uses bigger cooler lines so I using an auxiliary transmission cooler in front of the radiator instead of the built in cooler.

My truck has a 180 degree thermostat in it and usually runs right at 180-190 degrees …….sitting idling in traffic it creeps up to about 200 degrees but has not gone above that.

The radiator is considerably shorter than the original. In my case that worked very well as it gave me a place to hang an overflow tank.

Hope this helps.


Just read mprevo post, I'm don;t know if I came across the radiator he used when I was looking or not, but it would be one well worth looking at if it fits the nose well. The thing is you really need to get good measurements of you original radiator/grill shell before you go shopping. A 1/4-1/2" difference may not sound like much, but it can make all the difference in whether the radiator fits or not.



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I actually did a search on ebay years back for an aftermarket radiator that was shaped to fit my 48 ford, but larger to work with my engine, and transmission upgrades. There was a company that sold aluminum radiators for lots of different makes and year on Ebay then, had great reviews and was an actual radiator company/buisness somewhere in the Michigan/ mid west try searching ebay, might be helpfull. Very reasonable cost if I remember correctly!

Try portell radiator in desoto misouri. Portell Radiator Shop
I had him make a custom cheaper than a stock radiator and with much better quality. I drew a sketch out and he made it flawlessly, great work, great price so you know he is busy but it was worth my wait. Good luck

Thanks for all the info guys! I really hate to have to take the nose off of this car since
I'm bound to scratch up the new paint job doing it. I'll try taking off the Alternator , AC
and water pump and see if I can get the radiator out that way. Then I can get some good
measurements and place my order. I'll post some pictures of the project.

My next thing on my list is a new interior!

I know that there are inexpensive radiators out there whether they be brass or aluminum. Thing is if it's cheap to buy, it's usually cheaply made as well. They don't sell inexpensive radiators for $200 because they are nice guys. I have always found that if you buy from a reputable company and you will pay more for an USA built rad, you will also get what you pay for.
The Champion rads on the market are cheap cause the cores are made in china and I have seen many of them fail over time. Just my .02

Usually those china cores have the tubes and fins epoxied into the end plates and that is where they always seem to start leaking first.