Thread: in the middle of painting, ISSUES, desperate for help

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exactly, and it's maybe once a decade I paint so I don't want to invest that much into the tools and supplies

I wouldn't get to concerned at all as long as you have enough paint on, it's cut and buff time. One of the best painters I know (street rod magazine cars) says he's not a good painter, he just can color sand and buff really well. If this is your 1st paint job you will figure out real quickly that's where the finish and shine comes from, not that some can't get away without doing it, but I have too! Borrow somebodies buffer (variable speed for not doing it before) and head to harbor freight grab meguiars 105 & 205 compounds use your coupons, as they are pretty cheap there, go to oriellys and get a Master pro wool pad and a black foam pad, some 1000 grit wet paper and 1200 and you can do a pretty decent job with that alone, I use more pads and compounds but with just that you can get as good as a factory finish at least. If no money, just wait till you can as most likely it will need done or resand and reshoot but that's more paint and more $$

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I agree, if it bugs you now you might as well bite the bullet and do it. I got my buffer from Harbor Freight for $25 several years ago and it still working although it does have a personality. Start with a more aggressive compound in a wool pad, and then use the fine compound with a foam pad and you won't know your paint job back again. I also agree I would just stick with the 1500 grit sandpaper, it Buffs out much easier

first off stay away from a wool pad. you will destroy your job with it. money bet is you have very little paint on it. let it cure some then reshoot it. you need at least 4 good coats to cut and buff. adjust your gun a a scrap piece or on paper before you start . slow down and pay attention to the fan hitting the panel . put a light at the end of the car so you can see the fan track. overlap 50% .

I've always started with a wool pad, because that's what somebody told me. But I promise you Shine knows a ton more about paint than I do so I would listen to him.

Well I'm definitely good to go in the light department. I have (5) 400 watt metal halides hanging from my roof. (it's open trusses not a drywall ceiling so they are way up on the actual underside of the roof)
But even with that I want more light sometimes believe it or not.

Is there any point in buffing without wet sanding first? Or is that a total waste of time?

Originally Posted by DennyW

Pay attention to air pressure, tip size, paint mix. A practice piece, if you have little experience is the best way to go also. Last coat, I cut my paint again, because this helps in melting things together. This last coat is a more rapid application, but, again, unless you have done some painting, do not do that. And, like shine said, lights... If you can't see how the paint is laying down, you can't see the blending of the spray pattern. And with the color you are using, you need lights...

and yes I did make sure to use a regulator on my gun and I dialed it right into the range it recommended at the gun (about 25), and I used a 1.5 tip and 1.3-1.5 was recommended.
I think just the speed of my hand, distance to the car and fan width were my major issues. Even just after reading some suggestions before I did that last coat showed a big improvement. I wish I could go back in time and start over.

ok
yeah I totally understand about the light from the side comment. I was wishing that while I was doing it. I can see why guys who paint in real booths have lights facing horizontally all around them.

Great thread. I'm learning a lot here. I've also been frustrated with last coat issues and it's seems to be too much air and not enough material combined with drying too fast. I really appreciate the wisdom, advise and all the little tips backed up by tons of experience. As mentioned, need to get a lot paint down and cut/buff accordingly. I second the wool pad caution(s) as in the hands of those less than professionals you can burn right on down to the primer in a heartbeat (ask me how I now this...)

Thanks all for the knowledge that you are sharing. I'm encouraged to go shoot some more paint!

Glenn

i sand all the way to 3000 . spend your time sanding out scratches instead of overheating the paint trying to buff them out. if you get paint to hot it will "leather up " on you . meaning it will be smooth but have a fine texture which will not buff off .

Shine is right on, I have luck with a wool pad, but I also hook a router speed control up to a buffer and slow way down, (I still sand out to 2000) and it takes a bunch of practice (aka ruining a paint job and repainting) to learn how to use it, also never run your buffer dry, that will heat it up quickly, when I start getting near a to dry situation or my compound drys out I use a spray bottle with water. Being safe and sanding up as fine as you can with abralon pads or equivalant is a sure deal. But I think the biggest key here is shooting a test panel and learning to color sand and buff on it first so the pads run off the edge and not onto it. Also I would always start sanding and buffing on a deck lid, or hood, something that if you are to thin and cut through you can reshoot easily, not your roof!! I also generally have 4 or 5 wet coats before cutting & buffing, if not scuff with a grey scotchbrite and shoot more. I have used Eastwoods paint and have had great results just be patient, if it was easy and no extra work sanding and buffing everybody would shoot there own!! You will be proud when done, and as long as you mixed the paint correctly, you have enough coats on and you sand and buff you will be happy I believe.

Professional, I have no idea.

But do you need plastic drop cloth for painting?