Thread: getting cold, anyone ever make a grille cover/screen for a 1930s Ford?

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

So I guess you don't want to reply to questions-I'll just check out of this unless you decide to answer my questions----------

By the way-ask your friend if he ever heard anything about me-------

First off his friend told me he didn't know much about you other than you don't post pics either.....

Second of all, there is a 90* coming right off the radiator, and then 2 45s before it gets to the t stat housing.

3rd, those center bolt valve covers can be put on older heads with adapters. That intake doesn't look like an air gap either. But it does resemble some chinese wanna be air gap types I saw a while back.

Do you just feel like busting this guy's balls or what?

It's too bad the previous owner jacked this car up so bad, From the pics it looks like it presents as a really nice car!
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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

First off his friend told me he didn't know much about you other than you don't post pics either.....

Second of all, there is a 90* coming right off the radiator, and then 2 45s before it gets to the t stat housing.

3rd, those center bolt valve covers can be put on older heads with adapters. That intake doesn't look like an air gap either. But it does resemble some chinese wanna be air gap types I saw a while back.

Do you just feel like busting this guy's balls or what?

It's too bad the previous owner jacked this car up so bad, From the pics it looks like it presents as a really nice car!
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Thank you:


spent half the morning at the shop working with Jeff tearing down everything. 6 hours late for my primary job, but made it here at least for the last 4 hours.


The casting numbers on the motor are from a 1970-1973 Camaro.

The heads are L31 Vortec Heads according to Jeff.

The intake is a Edelbrock RPM model not sure of the actual model because he polished it and rubbed off the casting numbers, but it looks like he might have cut out the divider in the square bore himself, as I can't find any images online that match what this one looks like. The performer has a solid divider in the bore, the rpm has a cut out, but doesn't have the heat passage inlets on either side of the mounting pad, Could be a performer RPM, that is the closest I can find to this one, but it isn't stamped as performer RPM, and it has the bore cut. Anyone's guess. If I get time next week, I will get some pictures of it. not going back to the shop until after the holidays. Parts won't even be in until then.

The carb is a Edelbrock 1406 that was mounted on some weird ass spacer plate made of copper then had a round bore gasket, a square bore gasket, then another round bore gasket on the top and bottom of the copper plate for a total of 6 gaskets of different designs.


The water neck to radiator hose sits at a 45° angle then snakes into a 45° bend then another bend that is 53° to the 90° bend into the radiator, all angles were measured this morning. to many turns in the hose and too steep of an angle to the radiator from the intake, likely the issue with the under heat problem, water can't make it up and back into the radiator and is falling back into the motor.



The plan:

1. replacing the intake manifold with a 71163,
2. replacing the carb with a 14063,
3. replacing the water neck with one that is 1.5" taller and has a 45° offset neck so the hose will be at a roughly 45° angle and a single bend to the radiator,
4. replacing the thermostat with the "sleeve" style one suggested by 34_40 (BTW Jeff 100% agrees with you on this point, he rarely suggests it because people don't want to spend $40 on a t-stat).
5. adding a cool-view water neck spacer so the thermostat action is visible and I can check if it gets stuck open (https://coolviewthermostat.com/), this might be temporary as I am not keen on gimmicky stuff like this, but Jeff suggests so we can verify weather or not the t-stat is sticking.
6. removing the carb spacer which was there so the air cleaner could clear the distributor,
7. Adding a air cleaner spacer for the clearance issue, so the carb will be sitting on the new intake with no spacers or added junk, as designed.
8. replacing the fan switch with an adjustable one also as suggested by 34_40,
9. replacing all the crappy fancy chrome allen head bolts all over the motor with normal grade 8 bolts hopefully in black to match the new intake and carb.

I want to thank DennyW, 34_40, and 40FordDeluxe for their assistance. sorry if pictures and info wasn't more forthcoming from me, but as stated I work 16+ hours a day


as for Mr. Clayton:

I don't care you who are personally, celebrities and entitlement minded people who think they are special don't phase me, I could care less if you are the President of the USA or some industry god to others, to me you are nothing more than a grumpy, crotchety, old fart with nothing better to do that be an internet troll and bully..

mjeds, a bunch of us are still working stiffs trying to earn a living day in / day out.

Tossing a bunch of money in a car to support our hobby (addiction?) is tough as you well know. Take your time and enjoy this upcoming holiday. Hope you can work the bugs out of your ride and move on to better days real soon.

That sounds and looks like a really nice ride. I know eventually you will get all those stupid cross threaded bolts fixed, what a pain.

Pay no attention to Clayton. He has a long history of being a keyboard bully on this site.

Guess maybe I should start a poll???????Should I go or stay?/

Am I a bully or ????????

Why don't I post pictures?????????

What's my level of experience???????

Have I ever built a hot rod?????????

Do I know how to adjust valve clearance??

Whats the fastest speed you ever went???

Whats your favorite color???????

Have you ever had a car pic in a magazine????

Have you ever built any model kits??????????

Do you know how to weld?????????

Can you operate a lathe????????

Ryan---------I guess that maybe YOU aren't aware of the pictures I've posted over the years-------but, yes there has been some issues with a few about them, but it has been about the inability to post pics at the level I have taken them to show the details of some very specific issues-I kept getting use photo bucket, etc, downsize, whatever, but the camera I use and the work I show or the details off entries at different races/shows are almost impossible to put up here----------

I have several pics in my gallery, and I usually find that there are NONE in most posters gallery--------And I have posted thousands of show pics and races that I have attended plus thousands also of construction of race cars/street rods plus many many of machining engine/chassis components.

I do exchange some words with others but generally in issues as this thread its about not receiving answers to questions I or others have asked the poster about---------

Originally Posted by DennyW

By the way mjeds, you need new V belts. They sink to far into the pulley valley.

those pictures are from 2 years ago when I bought the car, the belts were one of the first things I replaced, they were cracked and shredding.

Originally Posted by DennyW

I saw, so I said something. The one looks brand new with the numbers. Not a problem. Just wanted you to know. What does the new ones look like mounted ? Show me when you get a chance.

no pictures at the moment, and won't be back at the shop until next week, likely won't matter, I'm contemplating swapping to a serpentine belt system since everything is apart anyway.

Originally Posted by DennyW

Well, that's not a bad ideal. How ever, pretty expensive. Your call. Remember a serpentine belt also needs the proper tension to function correctly...

yeah, it's part of the original planned upgrades I had for the car when I purchased it. also replacing the grille and front fenders with the proper year style, this is a titled 1939 Deluxe with 1938 Deluxe parts, there are some significant differences.


The builder couldn't find 1939 Deluxe steel front fenders, so he used fiberglass remakes, while not a big deal I guess for some, personally I want the cars look to be accurate for it's titled model.


I had also planned to replace the rear drum brakes with discs, install an LSD, and replace the tired TH350 with 700R4.

Unfortunately most of the initial budget for the car has been swallowed up fixing all this other B.S. Since the vehicle is now down for the count so to speak, I am likely just going to start the process to get the driveline the way I want it and worry about the interior and paint next summer.

Originally Posted by DennyW

I have some info on my site if you want to look at it. Just basic info...
(I hope it's ok I show a link to it)
V-Belt Tips - Denny's Car Talk

thanks, I will take a look.