Thread: Aluminum vs Brass Radiator

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Thanks for the replies! I'll try to address each comment:

210-215 is normal for a sbc in traffic. 200 down the highway is perfect with todays fuel......the first step it to verify the temperature gauge is reading accurately. The easiest way is to use a temperature gun.....

Yeah, I could live with 210 but the problem is in hot weather if the traffic stops (or city stop-and-go) my temps shoot way past that (220+) and I have to pull over, raise the hood, and let the fan cool it down.

I haven't verified it yet with a temperature gun, I just assumed that since it ran a steady 180 degrees when running in cooler weather it was probably correct, but you know what they say about assuming, so I'll shop for a temp gun.

Oil cooler---- Add an oil cooler.

I appreciate the idea, but I'm thinking/hoping I should be able to run at an acceptable range without having to add an oil cooler.

I swapped it for the largest aluminum Griffin Rat Rod series radiator I could get in. Has two 1 1/4" tubes. I also fitted a Cooling Components electric fan and shroud. This combo just barely fits. Fan has a super powerful motor that requires a 60+ amp relay if ran in single speed mode. The car finally runs decent temps. 180-185 on the highway with AC and 200 in traffic on a hot day. Still can't run the AC in traffic though........ Also, aluminum allows for larger tubes so there is effectively more water in contact with the tube wall.

One of the radistors I'm considering is a two row Griffin.

years ago my radiator guy told me that the reason my walker radiator ran hot was it was too thick. he recored my stock 47 ford radiator with a thin 3 row zcore. worked like a champ........it's about air flow , not number of tubes.

At the Goodguys show in Columbus, Ohio a vendor mentioned that to my friend. He has a Falcon (running hot) with a 4 row aluminum radiator. As soon as he mentioned 4 row the guy said that told him it was Chinese and the best set-up for cooling was a two row aluminum.

one more thing. you must have 1/2 in or more between your ac condenser and radiator. that's what was wrong with walkers

I do not have any clearance between the condenser and radiator. I guess I should address that first and see how much it helps..... thanks!

The fan blade rotation speed on the electric fans can be a problem-----If the fan is not powered it will rotate at a rpm that effectively is sorta like an airplane propeller....---so it really becomes an solid disc? BLOCKING the flow of air---.....If your fan is in front of the rad, this is happening all the time----

All of the fans I've used are pullers, and this is the third fan I've tried on this car and the first one did not have a shroud, just a 16" Spal. I've not really noticed much difference between any of them and once it turns on in warm weather it stays on since it rarely drops back to 180 or 190.

OK, so I can verify temps with a gun and space out my condenser at least 1/2" with minimal cost.

While the condenser spacing might help, I'm doubtful it will help in too much in city traffic, so let me pick your brains about three possible aluminum radiators I'll consider as a winter project if the condenser spacing isn't a good enough cure.

1. A Griffin 6-70100. A two tube aluminum radiator with 1.25" tubes, but it runs $1040 at Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/g...4aAoOoEALw_wcB

2. A "Be Cool" 60045. A two tube aluminum radiator with 1" tubes that runs $599 at Summit:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b.../1940#overview

3. A Champion Radiator that someone on this forum recommend to someone else. It is the cheapest but is a three row with a .63" row thickness. It is by far the cheapest of the three at $250:

https://www.championradiators.com/Ch...r_1940-1941_V8

While the price of #3 is attractive, I think choice # 1 & 2 would offer better cooling with their two tube design, plus they're made in the USA. Thanks again!

Well, I already gave my. 02 @about $80.

i've used afco cross flow. dont fall for the marketing hype. there are plenty of affordable radiators out there.

shop by size not application. any "streetrod" radiator will be way over priced. even afco price gouges on them. look into jeep radiators .

Shines's got a good point. I ended up using a first gen mustang radiator and shroud on my 37 Dodge.........a BUNCH cheaper than a "street rod" radiator.


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Have you looked into US Radiator? I run one of theirs in my coupe with a dual fan puller electric fan and connected to an electric thermal switch, on at 190 and off at 180.. works good for me.

i've used us radiators in the past. but they are up in the 700 dollar range now.

Just thinking out loud.. but,have you ever tried running it around without the hood? Just to see what might happen.. It may be trapping air under the hood.

Update: Well the first thing I did was make some 1/2" spacers for my A/C condenser. I was limited to 1/2" because of a support bar. Anyway that has helped a great deal. I just got back from the Street Rod Nationals where it was very hot and even in traffic I didn't go over 200 - 210. So far I'm very pleased and think I can live with it now but I appreciate all of the helpful hints and tips!

great! beats buying an 800 dollar radiator . biggest mistake is not leaving room between the condenser and radiator. took me years to figure that out. thats why those walkers didn't work . i noticed that on some of my trucks and stuff that they would mount the condenser as much as 4 inches away.