Thread: poor brakes
-
11-16-2022 05:58 PM #1
poor brakes
Hey Guys I'm having issues with my brakes on my 40 Ford p/u. I have wilwood disc on all four, 7" brake booster with 6-1 ratio brake pedal. Vaccum measures 14 inches with my gauge< not sure how accurate it is.
My brakes seem like they have no power to them, I'm thinking not enough vacuum. would putting a vac "CAN" do any good or would that just be the same. master cyl has a 1 inch bore. I know I can go to a 7/8 but that cost and will create a longer pedal push.
Any body use a electric powered vac pump ?
thoughts ?
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
11-16-2022 06:28 PM #2
A vacuum can could help. But 14 inches should be plenty. so maybe figure out a way to really measure the vacuum. Which calipers are you using? Wilwood Dyna-lite? Also, is your master higher than the calipers? If not did you use residual valves?
-
11-16-2022 07:12 PM #3
can't remember the calipers, it all came as a kit from Wilwood. I do have 2lbs residual valves installed. Good firm brake just no stopping power.
I just read a note from a Wilwood post saying 8" booster is the smallest booster that should be used. I have a 7" don't have room for bigger one.
-
11-16-2022 07:58 PM #4
Are you using the double diaphragm booster or the single? The double 7" will give will give more total area than a single 8". This comes at the expense of a longer booster while keeping the diameter approximately the same.Mike
I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
I'm following my passion
-
11-16-2022 10:02 PM #5
-
11-17-2022 07:00 AM #6
MPB recommends a minimum of 16" of vacuum, so 14 is borderline. A pump might help, but I think your best bet is change the MC or pedal ratio. Both of those will increase pedal travel, as you know.
You could also change pad compound. The pads that came on my Baer setup, which is very similar to Wilwood, don't seem to have the high initial bite that stock factory cars have, but also don't have much fade when hot. There are probably pad compounds that have higher friction coefficient than the pads you have.
Not easy to do, but rigging a pressure gauge on the brake line would give you a good idea what is actually going on. You're going to need 800 PSI minimum with 4 wheel discs. 1000 would be better. Of course, that pressure is entirely dependent on the braking situation. There may and probably will be times when 300 PSI will be enough, but for maximum braking and panic stops, you will need that high pressure available.Last edited by Hotrod46; 11-17-2022 at 07:03 AM.
Mike
I seldom do anything within the scope of logical reason and calculated cost/benefit, etc-
I'm following my passion
-
11-17-2022 07:20 AM #7
And I was going to offer the same opinion on the pads. Over this summer, I replaced my Master Cylinder as I was feeling the same as you. Just no "grippiness" , I was chatting with Wilwood Tech and we went over the list of components, I settled on going to the next smaller ID master. I had a corvette 1" and changed to a 7/8" Wilwood. I've had the car since 2000, and all the brake components are original to then, so I broke it all down, replaced the caliper rubber parts, cleaned and washed all the interior parts. After re-assembly and on a test drive I forced the pads to "bed" and that probably improved the whole package as much as changing the master! The procedure is on their website and I'd suggest you follow it if you've never done it before. It really helped mine.
-
11-17-2022 02:50 PM #8
Mike/34_40 mentioned bedding the pads. I wondered about pad material. Some of the sintered metal pads are so hard they almost seem to lose gripping ability. You might chat with Wildwood about your kit & application.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
-
11-19-2022 05:37 PM #9
I'd be curious (as Mike mentioned) to know what the actual brake line pressure is at the calipers. Once you know this pressure it may be easier to decide what to do to improve stopping power.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
11-19-2022 08:01 PM #10
-
11-20-2022 05:16 AM #11
-
11-20-2022 08:47 PM #12
I am running Wilwood Brakes as well, also with a 7" dual diaphragm booster.
I also have a vacuum problem, so I went with a Hella UP32 vacuum pump (it has a 1200 hour life expectancy)-it is a vane pump used on electric cars, and I also wired in a vacuum switch to regulate the pump-
Everything was new, and I was quite unimpressed at first-here is what I learned:
-first off, I had a hard time getting a firm pedal-using a power bleeder solved that, but it took awhile.
-secondly, I have a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve-adjusting that really helped, but I still wasnt satisfied-
-it took about 2-300 miles of variable driving to bed in the pads (which seemed like forever), but now it stops really well-
Doing it again I think I would add a 8" booster, but, like you, I'm out of room-
Drive it-a lot, and cycle the brakes-Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?
-George Carlin
How much did Santa have to pay for his sleigh? Nothing! It's on the house! .
the Official CHR joke page duel